TRX Restoration Project

[dandywarhol]

That's exactly what you do Con. You can either braze up the rebound holes or I've read of someone who fitted a steel ring around the holes to blank them off. You also need to drill a new single hole for the compression damping, 2mm from memory. The really important part is to chamfer / radius the new 8 mm holes in the tube, otherwise the oil tends to the"shear" when passing through them. It's a bit of a fiddle but well worth the effort!!

[Con Rod]

Thanks Dandywarhol.

I have dismantled the forks I am working on and now have to do my drilling and brazing.

After searching the forum I have found the information I need to prep the damper rods for the arrival of the emulators in the next couple of weeks but prior to doing anything that cannot be undone I thought it would be prudent to get confirmation from the "knowledge base"

this is the thread I got most of my information from

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5976&p=59629&hilit=emulators#p59629

And the bit I need to confirm is whether or not I need to add and additional 2mm rebound hole to the damper rod.

The picture below shows my damper rod and what I understand I need to do. I I have anything wrong please let me know

damper rod 4.jpg

[dandywarhol]

Jeez - it's been a few years since i did a set - I'm sure I brazed up all the holes, including the hole on the "waisted" part of the rod and drilled a new 2mm hole adjacent to it - from memory, the lower hole wasn't 2mm.......................

[Con Rod]

thanks for the response Dandywarhol,

I got these all set up last week and I am very very happy with the results.

I got a new set of springs suited to my weight (using the Race Tech calculator and a set of Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators. The difference is remarkable. Significantly less dive on braking and vastly improved compression damping. Anything more than and mild bump had been very crashy on the bike and now the forks are damping excellently. I would highly recommend this set up to anyone interested in a fork upgrade.

There is already a good how to guide on the install here:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5976

and details on how the Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators work can be found here:

http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Emul ... hey%20Work

but I have added some information below on what I did which may be helpful to others:

First off. Modification to the damper rods. This is what you need to do:

damper rod 4.jpg

Other that smoothing out the brazing and deburring and chamfering the edges of the new holes inside and out you do not need to make any alteration to the damper rods over and above what is shown.

With the emulators I ordered the ones listed for the TRX on the Race Tech site. Part number: FEGV S4301. This is not a direct fit into the TRX forks and needs to be modified to fit.

First problem I had was the emulators were slightly too large to fit in the damper rods

3.jpeg

2nd problem was that the emulators were too large to fit down the fork tubes:

2.jpeg

[Con Rod]

So what I needed to do was turn down the size of the emulators about a mm or so to fit

I spun them in a drill and used a file to turn them down to size. The one on the left below has been turned down

6.jpeg

and fits nicely in the fork leg:

5.jpeg

and in the damper rod

4.jpeg

[Con Rod]

Once I was happy with the fit I turn the 2nd emulator down to the same size (within 0.01mm) and polished them up

7.jpeg

The I just had to cut new spacers to suit the new springs and space taken by the emulator (left) and reassemble the forks:

8.jpg

Tuning these is fairly straightforward, obviously first off you set the sag. Then you can tune the compression damping on the emulators by adjusting the spring tension.

They come with some suggested settings which are a good place to start. They suggest 3 turns of preload on the compression spring, but I dialled the damping down a bit to 2 turns as I felt is was a bit firm firm Sydney's roads.

Do they work?

Yes, they work remarkably well. Highly recommended

[dandywarhol]

Good job - did you just use the rebound hole as standard in the waisted part of the tube? What size is the hole? You know that if you find the rebound damping isn't to your preference you just change the iol viscosity?

They really are a worthwhile improvement to these crude Yamaha tubes - the 2 stage compression damping is excellent

[Con Rod]

Good job - did you just use the rebound hole as standard in the waisted part of the tube? What size is the hole? You know that if you find the rebound damping isn't to your preference you just change the iol viscosity?

They really are a worthwhile improvement to these crude Yamaha tubes - the 2 stage compression damping is excellent

yes I am really very very happy with the results.

I did not alter the rebound hole in the waisted area at all or drill any new holes, I did exactly as per the picture I posted. I di not measure the exiting hole but it looks about 2mm

Currently using 15w oil with 2 turns on the emulator and I reckon it is pretty spot on for me.....well so far, I my tune further later after I get fussier

[Con Rod]

Bought this at the weekend.

Plan is to take the front and back end and put them on the TRX and part out the rest

yzf7501.jpg

[Con Rod]

strip down almost complete

yzf7502.jpg

[Yoozy]

What else can you use off that ?

[alextrx850]

A good pick up Con Rod..you will enjoy the end result.
You would be lucky if the six potters are serviceable..they tend to jam and cause disc warpage...be cautious to them...but they do take the 5/8 master.
Stock trx exhausts tend to foul the rear wider swing arm...and wheel bearings are cheap enough to give it all a birthday.
R6 shock next?
If you are after some 320 discs, the YZF takes same as ducati and aprilia...non radial..
Good one.!
Does PURPLE go with your colour scheme..?

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Wonder of the full fairing will fit the TRX????

[Con Rod]

What else can you use off that ?

Quite a few parts can be harvested with a little effort, obviously the wheels, front and rear ends can be swapped but also the carbs for example are the same, but there are 4 of them.

The rear brake master and calliper are also the same so I have swapped them over as mine were bit worse for wear

Loads of little parts like switches and locks are the same.

Rear sets are also the same.

A good pick up Con Rod..you will enjoy the end result.

You would be lucky if the six potters are serviceable..they tend to jam and cause disc warpage...be cautious to them...but they do take the 5/8 master.
Stock trx exhausts tend to foul the rear wider swing arm...and wheel bearings are cheap enough to give it all a birthday.
R6 shock next?
If you are after some 320 discs, the YZF takes same as ducati and aprilia...non radial..
Good one.!
Does PURPLE go with your colour scheme..?

I am hoping to make use of the 6 pots, although they are not likely to be much better that the bluespots I have so I may just end up maching the calliper bracke to take the blue spots. Thanks for the tips on the 6 pots, I will thread carefully.

I don’t have stock exhausts so hopefully I wont have any issue with the swing arm but I will see how I go. I already have an r6 shock

Plan is to renew all bearings seals and bushes as suggested, the discs are ok, but toward the end of their life so I will keep an eye out for your suggested alternatives

Don’t work, I have already attached the wheels with paint stripper. The plan is for black with polished rims.

Wonder of the full fairing will fit the TRX????

Na, completely different mounting arrangement I am afraid Cobba

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Main thing I'm looking for is a belly pan option that will fit the Akrapovic 2 into 1...