Checking camchain wear

[TRXNZ]

Hi all, I'm the proud owner of a fairly tidy 95 model. Unfortunately when the bike came up I'd recently had shoulder surgery so got a friend to test ride who gave it a big thumbs up, once I eventually rode it I noticed a top end tap, pretty minor in general but gets fairly noticeable on a contant 2800-3000rpm once it warms up (quiet when cold)

I've popped to a couple of local shops, one said yep needs shims and the camchain/guides are probably done (Honda shop). The other said shims but said he couldn't hear any camchain noise ( independent guy). I watched a great "how to" video blog on valve adjustment yesterday and am fairly keen to have a go myself but it'd be good to know if I'm up for a camchain/guides before I find I need to order parts with a motor in bits.

I've read though lots of threads on here but couldn't find a clear answer to... Can I remove the camchain tensioner to check how far out it is without risk of the chain moving on the crank gear?

Any advice appreciated, preferably all saying the same thing....

Tia

Paul

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Tension wrench!!!!!
Don’t overtighten the cam caps or you’ll kill the motor.
Yamaha spec is 10Nm
Look carefully at the oil feed to the inlet cam cyl 1. so make sure you prime the oil galleries and use assembly grease.
Plenty have had the job done by mechanics but don’t heed the advice to the detriment of the motor, valves and crank.
Never seen a TRX motor chew through the chain guides but there’s always a first time.
It’s a 95 so if it’s up or over 65,000km the inlet valves may need replacing.
Shim values out of the factory new are usually around hi 180’s low 190’s so if your inlet valve shims are down in the 160’s you’ll be up for some inlet valves shortly especially if the i lets have closed up.
97 onwards had revised inlet valves and problem was sorted and new valves fromYamaha will be the revised inlet valves.

You easily get 100,000 plus from the camchain and don’t pull the tensioner out unless your taking the cams out...
Just check the clearances first and if all in spec. Put the lid back on and keep riding.

[jpe70]

What cobba wrote!

[TRXNZ]

[quote="cobbadiggabuddyblooo"]Tension wrench!!!!!
Don’t overtighten the cam caps or you’ll kill the motor.
Yamaha spec is 10Nm- yip I’ve read this a few times now!


Look carefully at the oil feed to the inlet cam cyl 1. so make sure you prime the oil galleries and use assembly grease.
Plenty have had the job done by mechanics but don’t heed the advice to the detriment of the motor, valves and crank.-One of my concerns talking it to a shop not familiar with these bikes


Never seen a TRX motor chew through the chain guides but there’s always a first time.-Hopefully not..


It’s a 95 so if it’s up or over 65,000km the inlet valves may need replacing.-Bang on 65km


Shim values out of the factory new are usually around hi 180’s low 190’s so if your inlet valve shims are down in the 160’s you’ll be up for some inlet valves shortly especially if the i lets have closed up.-Yeah this is what I’ve read, valves swell and close the gap so it’s constantly in contact.

97 onwards had revised inlet valves and problem was sorted and new valves fromYamaha will be the revised inlet valves.

You easily get 100,000 plus from the camchain and don’t pull the tensioner out unless your taking the cams out...
Just check the clearances first and if all in spec. Put the lid back on and keep riding.- understood, didn’t seem like a good idea without being able to see the crank/cam position.


Thx for the info, I’m a automotive painter so plan to give this bike a full make over over winter, given the symptoms seem pretty minor compared to other motors I’ve heard running I might do a oil change now and put the engine work off a month to kill two birds..