These polished rims ....

slow codger · Post by **slow codger** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:45 pm

Acetone is nail varnish remover, by it in large quantities and MI5 will be looking to blow your brains out!!!

Nuff said.

Dave E

billy budge · Post by **billy budge** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:20 pm

Ahhh, nice one codger!!!!

Kinda worries me though how you know that!!!!

ekoja · Post by **ekoja** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:01 pm

Acetone is available here in Aussie at good ole K'mart. which is a department store. It comes in screw-top tins and is also used for cleaning prior to fibreglassing jobs

TIP. After you have finished cleaning with it. fill up with fuel, put 11ccs into the full fuel tank. The bike will sound and perform quite different. It will not damage the motor, It seems that it atomises the fuel drops even smaller which in turn aids the burn in the cylinders.
P.S. 11ccs is enough, to much is not necessarily better.

read this

remember you saw it here first. Also wikipedia has an interesting article on it.
The German Auto Union and Mercedes racing teams pre war (I seem to remember) (no I wasn't there) used it to effect They called it dimethyl ketone or something.
Might just go and have a liedown now.

Post by **Kevtrx849** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:17 am

ekoja wrote:
TIP. After you have finished cleaning with it. fill up with fuel, put 11ccs into the full fuel tank.

Just don't use those little plastic medicine cups to measure it with

Acetone will melt plastics and soften rubber (carby parts/fuel lines)

Olputt · Post by **Olputt** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 8:59 am

And speaking from experience - Keep it out of your eyes

ss kustoms · Post by **ss kustoms** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:12 am

Billy, Don't know if this helps but when I looked into polishing rims was told they are fully painted first then spun in a lathe and a very fine skim taken of the rims to remove the paint. maybe you could do the same?

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:11 pm

yup thats quite possible to do.

Acetone and steel wool does work wonders tho. you really need to soak for a few mins to loosen it up.. it turns into a goopey paste crap.

Many places "caustic wash" before polishing, and can remove powder coat.

If your REALLY keen, ive seen the abrasive wheels for drills / die grinders.. Not the cutting ones or flap disk ones.. Think "firm green dishcloth scrubbing pad". You can get them for electric drills. It wont touch the alu wheel, but it does make a nice mess of paint / powder coat..

As for acetone and fuel, its because acetone is one of the best "thinning" agents. Think how 3 drops of some concentrated dish washing liquid can work on a whole sink of water, and make dishes clean. The acetone does the same thing to paint and fuel.. it "thins it out".
This chemical reaction helps atomisation by destroying the chemical bond between the molecules.

Higher octane fuel is thinner than low octane fuel. But over time high octane evaporates because its so thin.. Acetone does the same.. It evaporates VERY quickly (and will readily absorb water from the atmosphere im told.. cant confirm / deny, im not a chemist !)

Prolong'd use of acetone can destroy seals, but we are talking 5+ years of use OR !!!! leave bike sitting for a few months with mix, it destroys the injector seal / fuel pump seal.
Many new seals are designed to combat this.. Since ethanol does the same thing to seals, it breaks the rubber down.

anyway, hope i made it a bit clearer.

billy budge · Post by **billy budge** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:54 pm

SS Kustoms - cheers buddy for that tip and i wish to christ i had known it before but its a very handy one that i shall use or pass on to other misfortunate souls!!

Quan - are you sure you aint a chemist, i cant help but chuckle to myself when i read your posts and think how the hell your brain can store that amount of knowledge, its unreal dude!!

Also your acetone trick has worked wonders and the wheel is nearly completely stripped of powdercoat (used scotchbrite which is a cross between a harse scouring pad and wirewool), and im now contemplating using a drop in my fuel tank!!!

dirty trix · Post by **dirty trix** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 10:28 am

billy budge wrote: and im now contemplating using a drop in my fuel tank!!!

Just dont get a drop on your tank.... you've seen already what it does to paint....

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 3:13 pm

yer.. best paint stripper known to man.. better than brake fluid.

as for storing knowledge.. umm.. ive got this weird thing going on.. im not sure how or why, but i dont actually forget anything i learn. Not sure if its a "memory trick" or somethin, i just seem to retain knowledge REALLY easily, and i read alot.

The longest hole in one in golf was scored by robert brunswick on the.. october 1965, 411yards on a par 4.. He hit it with a 65m/h tail wind..

Might wanna check up on that one, but im fairly sure it still stands..

Each year for xmas i get the Guinness Book of World Records, and read it cover to cover about 2 times. I seem to remember fairly much all of it.
Also, no one plays trivial pursuit with me anymore. But pictionary is a good one, since i cant draw for shit..

On another note, glad to see you got your rims sorted. When you replace your tyre, get a new valve and stem, im guessing IF it was still on there, the acetone will "dehydrate" the rubber seal.. It will seem fine, but about 2 weeks from now it will crack and look like its 10 years old.

-----
EDIT
-----

I was way off !! Robert Mitera, October 07 1965, 447 yard. So just ignore anything i said, and rest assured im a moron !

billy budge · Post by **billy budge** » Thu Dec 06, 2007 3:27 pm

Good one quan, most amusing mate!! I know what you mean about the guiness book of records thing, if i dont get a copy then it just aint christmas!! I always used to think people liked me that much that they would fight for me to be on their pub quiz team or trivial pursuit team but as it turns out its cos im a nerd!!

Thanks for the valve/stem tip, will make sure i do that.

fantic125 · Post by **fantic125** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:43 am

Hold your horses guys, and back up to the plate!

Powder coating - usually a polyester or polyurethane powder sprayed over the metal and baked @ 100~120 degrees, which turns it from a powder to a liquid. If the substrate is prepared properly, it sticks like shit to a blanket. If not prepared properly, or high humidity/long time between blasting & coating, it will peel off in 12~18 months.

Removing powder coating can be hard work - better off masking the areas you don't want removed with 100mile hour tape (gaffa tape) and getting it grit blasted. Green scotchbrite and Autosol...mmmmm......

Older alloys and metals have all sorts of crap built into them - you're better off going grit blast & prime/two-pack - curing temperture 60~80C within 24 hrs. Less leaching and edge-bleeding, but slightly more work as the alloys not painted are exposed = polishing every two weeks or so.

Sorry Quan, but Acetone is best used for cleaning your nails. I'm told n850trx uses it frequently.

If you do use it, dip your your nails in Palmolive dishwashing liquid regularly, it will help strengthen them!

It is still used, but more companies are going to other (synthetic) aromatics.

Microns = 1,000 mm. Not sure about metals, but typical paint coverage over a plastic part (eg, Holden SS side skirt). Primer; 5 microns, basecoat (colour) 20 microns, Clearcoat, 40 microns.

Total; 65 microns. Will last for years.

Time to go to bed I think.

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 11:34 am

@ fanatic125

i agree that most powdercoats are poly based, but not all are. And to clarify a "liquid" is something that is no longer in its frozen "solid" state. Powdercoat turns to a thicker-than-honey goo which doesnt flow under normal circumstances. This is why you can bake it without it running off the part.

I do agree with your statement about blasting / treating times.. It must be a fast turn around else you get oxidisation, which is bad. Some parts are chemically treated to beat this if required.

As for removing, acetone is still a very good solution.. Its non reactive to metal (meaning it wont tarnish / corrode it) but does break a polymer bond, aswell as a few others (hot glue for example.. those glue sticks you put into hot glue guns, im fairly sure it disolves that aswell).

for the weak nail thing.. (this is all from memory, so take it with a pinch of salt) nails are protein, therefore are 100% dead and have NO human DNA or any chance to rebuild life in any form. But the skin attached to it obviously does. Males eat more meat than females, males usually have stronger, thicker nails, while females dont.. Same for vegetarians from what i remember (unless they have a good protein replacement).

Want strong nails ? eat some quality red meat twice a week.

1,000 microns is 1mm.. I think thats what you ment.

Most powdercoat is 65-80 microns depending on application and type of p'coat.
Look up "jethot" powder coat i think it is.. They paint your exhaust with it, and it DOESNT melt off. But also retains heat.. Almost as good as ceramic coating, but WAY WAY cheaper. Has a low cure temp, but a HUGE melting temp so it wont come off.

that being all said, i agree with fanatic125, there is better "synthetic" removers, but you obviously pay a huge price, there is better ways to "paint" your rim. But for what it is, powdercoat is a good solid and cheap alternative.

and yes, n850 cleans his girly nails with acetone, and prolly drinks it.

steve speed · Post by **steve speed** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:35 pm

a bit off topic ,, whats the best to paint the engine with ,i would like the silver finish back up to scratch,, any info ??

dillthedog · Post by **dillthedog** » Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:58 pm

http://www.manp.co.uk sell pj1 yamaha silver case paint