Normal running temp/air box mods/magnetic drainbolt/calipers

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 4:42 am

This is my first post here. I've owned my TRX for a week now and I love it! All i wanna do is ride!
The bike seems to have been really well cared for and seems perfect despite covering 50000+kms.
Got a few questions for you....
1. What does your temp gauge read when riding 'normally' on the road? Mine never gets off the stop! The only time I've ever seen it rise even a little is when I'm sat in traffic. Is this nomal? I live in Sydney, it's summer so pretty hot.
2.I've got staintune pipes. I've read a lot about the TRX running rich so I'm thinking of modding the airbox and getting a K&N filter. Can someone post a picture of how a modded box should look? Where do you make the extra holes? What diameter should the holes be? etc? Where can I get the filter?
3. I see you can buy a magnetic oil drain bolt on Ebay. The idea being that any tiny metal particles that don't get caught by the oil filter will get stuck to this magnet, therefore reducing engine wear. Has anybody used these? Do they work or are they just BS?
4. I'm thinking of making the blue spot caliper mod. Some guy told me recently he made the mod but has experienced excessive disc wear since. Any reason why this should be?... apart from the fact that you're probably gonna use the brakes a bit harder?

THANKS!
Rjen.

Triton · Post by **Triton** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 6:25 am

Welcome Rjen,

1. My TRX temp gauge averages about 75 during summer in day to day riding but does go higher in bad Sydney traffic.

2. I also have Staintunes (I run with baffles on the road) and a K&N but no airbox mod... runs slightly rich at idle but clears in more "spirited" use. Without baffles it's spot on.

3. Don't bother... change the oil as per book, and use decent 15W50.

4. Bluespots are OK, but I found braided lines and SBS sintered pads a much better mod initially. The originals really improve in feel and power with the braided lines, pads and a good bleed. However, if you're a racetrack refugee, the blue spots give more consistent and greater level of feel and ultimate power in hard use. My blue spots were from a 2003 R6 and lasted for about 5000km before "going off" and need a seal rebuild to prevent dragging - it's the dragging caused by the pistons not retracting that causes the disc wear.

Peter850 · Post by **Peter850** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 7:13 am

Welcome Rjen, where are you from?

twolfe · Post by **twolfe** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 11:27 am

G'day rjen
As Triton says the temp guage doesn't move much.I would leave the airbox if I were you,the mods can cause problems with standard carbs.I have no personal experience, but I think others on the forum have had troubles after the mods.You can get the K&N filter from any bike shop, I have heard people saying that the $100 or so isn't worth spending for the small gain you may get, but it certainly can't hurt it.
Welcome the the wonderful world of TRX's.
Terry

trix · Post by **trix** » Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:29 pm

It's completely normal for the temp gauge not to move. Yamaha in their wisdom put the sensor on the outlet from the radiator, rather the the inlet. Therefore its always "relatively" cool.
It only moves when your stuck in a bad traffic jam.

burty · Post by **burty** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:11 pm

K&N filter is worth the money just for the additional induction roar. IMHO.

3. I see you can buy a magnetic oil drain bolt on Ebay. The idea being that any tiny metal particles that don't get caught by the oil filter will get stuck to this magnet, therefore reducing engine wear. Has anybody used these? Do they work or are they just BS?

My drainbolt is magnetic anyway, I always thought that this was a standard drainbolt.

ekoja · Post by **ekoja** » Sun Dec 03, 2006 9:13 pm

Just to add my tuppence worth (old saying

) if you are running in hot conditions and were wondering if the radiator cooling fan is ever going to cut in, it cuts in at 102 degs and cuts out at 106 degs
Oh welcome bye the way

I really must stop drinking so early in the morning, What I should have said was that it cuts in @ 102 and cuts out about 98 deg (if memory serves)

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:49 am

[quote="trix"]It's completely normal for the temp gauge not to move. Yamaha in their wisdom put the sensor on the outlet from the radiator, rather than the inlet.[/quote="trix"]

haha. Nice move Yamaha!

That explains a lot. I won't bother wasting anymore time wondering what the hell is wrong then.

OK. So it sounds like the the best thing to do is to leave the airbox totally standard. I might get a K&N filter the next time the std filter needs changing, not before 'cos $100 seems a bit excessive.

To answer some of the other replies....
I'm in Sydney, North Shore but originally I'm from the UK. My TRX is red, all standard (I think!) apart from the Staintunes. Say 'hi' if you see me out and about!

Cheers,
Rjen.

Wombat · Post by **Wombat** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 7:42 am

Hey rjen, was that your TRX out at Eastern Creek in the parking lot at the Aust. Superbikes about 2 weeks ago?

Bob

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:37 pm

Wombat wrote:Hey rjen, was that your TRX out at Eastern Creek in the parking lot at the Aust. Superbikes about 2 weeks ago?

Bob

Nope. Wasn't me! Well, it could have been my bike 'cos I've only owned it for a week and a half!
-rjen

trix · Post by **trix** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:14 am

Rjen,
Other TRX foibles you might notice being a newbie is a big clunk when you select first gear on a cold engine, often enough to stall the engine (I'm surprised you haven't mentioned this, its one of the usual first questions). Maybe you have already heard this is normal or maybe you've had other Yamaha's before that did the same thing.
I find that pulling the clutch lever about 20 times before selecting 1st gear helps.

Post by **Max** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:59 am

trix wrote: I find that pulling the clutch lever about 20 times before selecting 1st gear helps.

Helps give you arm pump?

Usually, just two or three does the trick with mine. Or you can put it in gear hold the clutch in and rock it back and forth a little, enough to break the suction on the plates before you fire it up. I wouldn't recommend doing this by trying to use the starter as it would put unnecessary torque on it causing it to wear out or strip some teeth.

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:18 am

I haven't really noticed that selecting 1st on a cold engine to be a particular problem but I'll bear the advice given in mind. I always start mine in neutral with the clutch pulled in. I figure if you've got a false neutral you're not gonna get caught out, plus the starter motor is doing as little work as I can give it (I guess!).
Yeah I've had Yams before with this problem. Back in the day I had a TZR250 and more recently an RZ350R (which I had to sell to get the TRX

). After starting those I'd always get the thing rolling with my feet before selecting first!
The TZR and RZ are some of the reason why I bought the TRX. The TRX kind of reminds me of those if you know what I mean.
-Rjen.

Post by **Max** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:47 am

rjen wrote: The TZR and RZ are some of the reason why I bought the TRX. The TRX kind of reminds me of those if you know what I mean.
-Rjen.

2 cylinders?

rjen · Post by **rjen** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:56 pm

Max wrote:
rjen wrote: The TZR and RZ are some of the reason why I bought the TRX. The TRX kind of reminds me of those if you know what I mean.
-Rjen.
2 cylinders?

Yeah. Parallel twin, skinny, similar styling (in a way). I love the brutally effective simplicity of it all. Less is more.