General Discussion Forum for TRX Enthusiasts...
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trix
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by trix » Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:26 am
Well folks, I've took the carbs off and had a look at the emulsion tubes and they dont appear to be ovalled to me..take a look and pass comment please! the needles seemd fine as well. A few of you (DFH and youngy) have mentioned intake clearances so I guess I'll have to look at that next. Though I'll probably check the chokes first and make sure they're closing properly like TWOLFE said.
Question; what are my chances of rebuilding the carbs successfully with the old seals/gaskets? I dont fancy waiting days for new ones. Any thoughts?
Carbs off
Carbs:
Emuslion tube?;
Doesn't look ovalled to me. The picture is deceptive, it's definitely not obviously "ovalled";

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youngy
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by youngy » Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:50 am
maybe it's the photo but that emulsion tube doesn't look great to me.
old seals/gaskets = no problem. while it's in bits check your float heights. choke is possible, but as the problem has switched sides I'd say unlikely.
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trix
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by trix » Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:23 am
Thanks youngy. Maybe the tube's not perfect, but there's a dark coloured area (varnish?) at the edge of the bore (to the right of the bore in that last picture) which tends to make it look out of shape, but when you're actually holding it and looking at it it seems pretty much circular. At one point in my original post I asked how obvious is it when the tube is ovalled and someone said its very obvious. Thats why I put this picture on, for people to compare. Any one got any pics of a worn out tube?
Yes; I may aswell check the float heights while I'm at it. I agree about the chokes now that you mention it. They both appear to be returning anyway, although the mechanism is a little sticky now. I'll give it a good clean.
How big a job is checking the valve clearances? Has anyone done it recently?
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youngy
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by youngy » Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:28 am
Checking them isn't hard if you take your time. You need to remove a pile of stuff to get access to the valve cover, but you're half way there already. Changing shims means taking out the camshafts.
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phuk72
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by phuk72 » Thu Mar 27, 2008 1:11 pm
Wot he said ^^^^
Checking them is relatively straight forward - changing shims is more involved
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brockzila
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by brockzila » Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:01 pm
i hada a go at it a few weeks ago. you have most of the stuff off already just need to pull the cooling system out now. take your time and it will only take a few 3-5 depending on smoko and beer breaks. but if you need new shims you might as well order the carb kit as the shims may have to be ordered.
If you have a clue and a hanes or down load it off the net its quite simple.
Is it Brock friendly???
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steve speed
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by steve speed » Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:47 pm
when i removed my tubes they also did not seem to bad ,,,but when i put new one's in there from factory pro it made a huge difference ,,,yours do look feked to me
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slow codger
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by slow codger » Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:56 pm

As above, they dont look round!
Dave E
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trix
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by trix » Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:56 pm
OK OK!! Where's the best place to get tubes? £80 a pair for Factory Pro from straightline racing in the UK. £37 a pair delivered direct from Factory pro in the US. £30 a pair delivered from Kedo in Germany. Dont know if the ones from Kedo are nickel plated like factory pro's though. Any other sources?
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HansJ
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by HansJ » Fri Mar 28, 2008 7:54 am
http://www.topham.de, cheap but top service, English speaking guy with TRX knowledge, I keep recommending him but no one seems to listen

IQiokW
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steve speed
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by steve speed » Fri Mar 28, 2008 4:34 pm
factory pro will be harder wearing as they are plated,,,do the needles as well , i used yamaha ones
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trix
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by trix » Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:07 am
Yes, that was my thinking. The factory pro ones are nickel plated. I've ordered a pair. I was going to use the standard needles. The plated tubes will probably wear out the needles now!! But I'll take a chance.
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steve speed
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by steve speed » Sat Mar 29, 2008 5:39 pm
fp do a titanium needle ,, not cheap though

TRX850 ,The thinking mans R1