Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Hi everyone!

I read through past topics about suspensions set up and due to my lack of common sense I got quite confused...
I started from the standard set up and tried to adjust from there but with lack of real improvement, the front end feels like is going "wide " when I enter a turning...
I'm 11 1/2 stones, anyone with a similar weight and some suggestions?

Cheers!

I'm around 10 stone (63 kg) and got a similar feeling from mine when I first got it. I've dropped the front so there's about 25mm showing above the clip-on and fitted shorter dog bones to the rear linkage to give a 20mm rise at the back. It feels sooooo much better now going into and driving through corners. Much more 'front-endy'. Knackered tyres won't help of course, and check the tyre pressures too

first off when was the oil changed in the forks ? how old is the rear shock ? unless these things are brought up to date then iam sorry but your wasting your time ,,,if they have been serviced then the first thing to do is set the static sag if you want to know more do a search first,, then we will help you if you get stuck ,,just ask , but i have to tell you that the std trx suspension is not the best but it can be sorted

Its not an import is it? If so throw away the fork springs!!

Dave E

Agree with all above, correct sag, and then You can start by looking at the picture below:

I've "stickied" this thread so others can find that chart again easily

Thanks everyone...and Jack many thanks for your graphic...I'm impressed!

Cheers!!!

TWISTEDTWIN wrote:Hi everyone!

I read through past topics about suspensions set up and due to my lack of common sense I got quite confused...
I started from the standard set up and tried to adjust from there but with lack of real improvement, the front end feels like is going "wide " when I enter a turning...
I'm 11 1/2 stones, anyone with a similar weight and some suggestions?

Cheers!

Before you look at the chart:

1) Check steering head bearings and torque setting. If the bearings are worn or loose, the front end will move on turn in, which may give you the impression that the bike doesn't want to turn or is going to tuck on you.

2) Tyres. If the bike won't hit an apex, it may well be your tyre choice. Just my opinion, but the TRX doesn't have Bimota suspension adjustment - when I first got the bike, the forks had two settings, "pronounced wallow" and "locking up". But it didn't run wide per se. Of course you may very well just be pushing the bike much harder than me. But if it is doing something unusual, I just doubt the front end has enough adjustment to make a difference. Had the apex-avoiding experience on my '954, until I got rid of the 020s and fitted something else. Magically, it was able to go where I pointed it after that.

3) TRXs are very slow turners, and I suspect a lot of this is down to chassis geometry. It was par for the course in 1995, but perhaps you've been riding bikes built after 1999 recently? Maybe some of the wide-barred bikes in your sig? Mine is 10mm down at the front and 10 up at the back (Ohlins shock with adjuster). It does get into fast corners much more easily, but the tradeoff is that the behaviour in slow corners isn't as good as it was. That said, I know some people have made much more radical changes at least from the steerer tube forward (i.e. not to the frame) and seem to be happy. I guess what I'm trying to say is that the fear that you may not make the apex is not necessarily a "bug", it may be a "feature".

i to would agree with checking the steering head bearings,, mine are now a bit on the tight side but this gives the front a far more planted feel for me

Whereas I agree whole heartedly with the above, everyone appears to be ignoring what steve raised.

The TRX is over 10 years old and the standard suspension WILL be in need of a refresh. Chances are that the fork oil has never been changed and the rear shock will be way past its best.

Standard suspension, despite what some would have you believe, isn't actually that bad.

I'd suggest spending £150 on having your rear shock serviced/rebuilt and changing the fork oil. Then (and only then) should you start adjusting the settings.

If you haven't got £150 then at least change the fork oil.

THEN, have a go at setting the sag (search is your friend )

Of course, I agree completely. Without fresh rubber, and a decently working fork/rear shock, and with any excessive play in swingarm and head bearings. no adjustings in the world will help. And consider this, what's the amount of oil in the forks compared to what's in the rear shock? If it's time to change oil in the forks, what are the chances the oil in rear is past it's best date... So, follow Pete's advice, and then set up sag, and then start tweaking. It was a real AHA moment after my first testride after having rebuilt my rear shock...

HansJ wrote: It was a real AHA moment after my first testride after having rebuilt my rear shock...

You started singing "Take on me"?

LOL,

No, more like "Stay on the roads"...

(Admit, had to google that one )

Ok then,
I will get the rear shock checked and hauled if necessary, front fork oil on the to do list as well, it seems a good starting point.
After that, if my mercurial riding skills need more, I will start playing with the rest!

I read (I think on mcn...) that in terms of tyre choice , that a set of Metzeler Sportec M1 work very well ...I don't want to mix topics but while we are at it....it is still a handling issue!!

Cheers

phuk72 wrote:

HansJ wrote: It was a real AHA moment after my first testride after having rebuilt my rear shock...

You started singing "Take on me"?

If I recall the video, it would be a pretty scary experience having an AHA moment.