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Coolant pipe removal
Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 7:12 pm
by bevie
Hi team,
About time I did the valve shims everything off but the coolant pipe into the head is siezed solid any tips on getting it off without butchering it.
Bevie.
P.S.If I need to butcher it anybody got a spare ?
Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 7:13 pm
by youngy
you removed the bolt?
Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:25 pm
by bevie
Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:12 pm
by steve speed
change the bolt for a stainless cap head and use a new o ring on the pipe ,,i didnt and it leaked like a b@stard
Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:58 am
by youngy
never done it, but I'd say soak in WD40 or similar overnight
Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:43 pm
by bevie
steve speed wrote:change the bolt for a stainless cap head and use a new o ring on the pipe ,,i didnt and it leaked like a b@stard
How deep into the head is the pipe I assume it locates in a bore,probably corroded now.
Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:46 pm
by bevie
youngy wrote:never done it, but I'd say soak in WD40 or similar overnight
Gave it a good soaking and a heat last night let you know how I get on.
Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:16 pm
by steve speed
bevie wrote:Steve speed wrote:change the bolt for a stainless cap head and use a new o ring on the pipe ,,i didnt and it leaked like a b@stard
How deep into the head is the pipe I assume it locates in a bore,probably corroded now.
the pipe is a push fit into the head about 19mm with a o ring on the pipe ,,and using wd on the bolt made no difference on mine i ended up giving the bolt a whack down with the biggest hammer i could get in there ,then it came out ,,now its a stainless cap head with a spring washer and copperslip on the threads ,and a new o ring ,,,,hope this helps
Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:28 pm
by bevie
steve speed wrote:bevie wrote:Steve speed wrote:change the bolt for a stainless cap head and use a new o ring on the pipe ,,i didnt and it leaked like a b@stard
How deep into the head is the pipe I assume it locates in a bore,probably corroded now.
the pipe is a push fit into the head about 19mm with a o ring on the pipe ,,and using wd on the bolt made no difference on mine i ended up giving the bolt a whack down with the biggest hammer i could get in there ,then it came out ,,now its a stainless cap head with a spring washer and copperslip on the threads ,and a new o ring ,,,,hope this helps
Steve,
Cap screw removed easy enough the main prob is the pipe must be corroded into the head might need to saw it off yet
Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 9:58 am
by steve speed
no need to saw it off, it will have jammed in there with corrosion ,just try and get some movement on it and it will come free,,it will be tight if its been in there a long time , i had to get a bar thats fits inside the tube and work it back and forth to get some movement on it and then it came free ,,, it will fight back though just make sure you win !!
Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:35 pm
by bevie
Steve,
Gave it a good seeing to and your right I won
checked all the valve clearances and after all that their all within limits so you could say a waste of time but at least I know clearances are ok thanks for the input.
Ian.
Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:07 am
by Quan-Time
cut it off, buy a new one. The pipe is obviously dry as a nun's nasty.
When you go to install the new one, a THIN wipe of vasoline or high temp grease on the tube + fitting. Should make it fine. but THIN remember, you only need enough to wiggle it on, no so it shoots off soon as you start the bike !
And a ziptie if you wish below the ribbed bit so it wont pull off.
