Aftermarket rearsets - pros/cons?
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- JL
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Aftermarket rearsets - pros/cons?
Well, as the title might suggest I am curious about the benefits of changing the rearsets. I understand that they move the pegs up and back, and presume that this is to improve corner clearance. Is there anything else I'm missing? I have checked earlier posts and it seems a few (not many) people make them for the trx and some of you have them on your rides. For those of you that do, would you care to share your experience with them in terms of riding/cornering? Also, in terms of daily riding, are they a bit too extreme or do you find them comfortable enough?
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Re: Aftermarket rearsets - pros/cons?
As i´m only 177cm it helped me getting legs up into the tank.JL wrote:Well, as the title might suggest I am curious about the benefits of changing the rearsets. I understand that they move the pegs up and back, and presume that this is to improve corner clearance. Is there anything else I'm missing? I have checked earlier posts and it seems a few (not many) people make them for the trx and some of you have them on your rides. For those of you that do, would you care to share your experience with them in terms of riding/cornering? Also, in terms of daily riding, are they a bit too extreme or do you find them comfortable enough?
...and it´s bling....
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Rearsets aren't just about raising the peg height - some will offer more room that stock.
For me, I wanted more corner clearance and my pegs are up and back about 30mm. I regard my peg and bar position as fairly extreme (certainly compared with stock) but can still do 600 miles in a day - although I ache like hell the next day.
For me, I wanted more corner clearance and my pegs are up and back about 30mm. I regard my peg and bar position as fairly extreme (certainly compared with stock) but can still do 600 miles in a day - although I ache like hell the next day.

- trixynut
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Mate,
I'm running a set of LSL rearsets which move the pegs back about 20-25mm and up about 20-25mm.
As the TRX standard riding position is quite relaxed, this new position doesn't cause any concern or discomfort for me at 6' 1".
I found that the standard position made me sit right forwards, and heavy braking had me squashing the wifes wedding present on the tank!
so biggest advantage of them was to make me sit further back in the seat.
Ground clearance is better, but I never grounded the standard pegs anyway, even on track.
Plus I got them cos they were cheap and second hand, and look good!

Dave.
I'm running a set of LSL rearsets which move the pegs back about 20-25mm and up about 20-25mm.
As the TRX standard riding position is quite relaxed, this new position doesn't cause any concern or discomfort for me at 6' 1".
I found that the standard position made me sit right forwards, and heavy braking had me squashing the wifes wedding present on the tank!
Ground clearance is better, but I never grounded the standard pegs anyway, even on track.
Plus I got them cos they were cheap and second hand, and look good!

Dave.
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I've got the Coerce brand rearsets on my road bike and track bike. They move the position about 20mm back and up the same amount. i use the reverse linkage on both bikes. I find them very comfortable even for long distance travelling. I'm 165cm .
If everything seems under control
your just not going fast enough.
( HENRY FORD )
your just not going fast enough.
( HENRY FORD )
- JL
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I'm guessing by "more room" you are talking about clearance? As you might have guessed from my cornering post, that's the main reason I'm interested. And phuk - I would be destroyed by 600 miles in a day with standard pegsphuk72 wrote:Rearsets aren't just about raising the peg height - some will offer more room that stock.
For me, I wanted more corner clearance and my pegs are up and back about 30mm. I regard my peg and bar position as fairly extreme (certainly compared with stock) but can still do 600 miles in a day - although I ache like hell the next day.
A bit of height might help as well to get the thigh into the tank cutout, although I would be interested to see if you can get those stick-on grippy pads to fit. They might also help to keep the knee grip tight under heavy braking to avoid 'squishing the pants pressies'.
It looks like none of you have any discomfort, which is good to know. I'm only 175cm so it's unlikely that I'll be cramped! Guess I'll have to start putting money aside but it will have to wait, as the general consensus seems to be that I need a new front tyre first!
In the meantime, I might get the grinder and remove those silly knobs on the pegs that are getting in the way!
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No, by more room I actually meant lowering the pegs or moving them forwards.JL wrote:I'm guessing by "more room" you are talking about clearance? As you might have guessed from my cornering post, that's the main reason I'm interested. And phuk - I would be destroyed by 600 miles in a day with standard pegsphuk72 wrote:Rearsets aren't just about raising the peg height - some will offer more room that stock.
For me, I wanted more corner clearance and my pegs are up and back about 30mm. I regard my peg and bar position as fairly extreme (certainly compared with stock) but can still do 600 miles in a day - although I ache like hell the next day.![]()
A bit of height might help as well to get the thigh into the tank cutout, although I would be interested to see if you can get those stick-on grippy pads to fit. They might also help to keep the knee grip tight under heavy braking to avoid 'squishing the pants pressies'.
It looks like none of you have any discomfort, which is good to know. I'm only 175cm so it's unlikely that I'll be cramped! Guess I'll have to start putting money aside but it will have to wait, as the general consensus seems to be that I need a new front tyre first!![]()
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Good thing I'm back at work and get catered food heh heh...
In the meantime, I might get the grinder and remove those silly knobs on the pegs that are getting in the way!
I've looked for Stomp pads (the grippy stick on pads) - no one makes a bike specific set but you can cut to fit.
Like Burty I found the standard pegs uncomfortabkle and feel more in the bike with rearsets. I'm 185cms btw

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LozLul
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No need for such a violent measures. Silly-hero knobs are on grooves and the spherical head of the knob even has a cut out to make twisting easier.In the meantime, I might get the grinder and remove those silly knobs on the pegs that are getting in the way!
But be warned, next thing touching ground after the knob removal (that actually begins to sound like something I really wouldn´t want to do...) will be your sidestand on the right and alternator cover on your left. And they don´t fold eighter.
...BTW, if somebody has a mint alternator cover to spare, I would be interested in buying it...
- JL
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Heh heh heh... yes, knob removal can be a touchy (excuse the pun) topic...LozLul wrote:But be warned, next thing touching ground after the knob removal (that actually begins to sound like something I really wouldn´t want to do...) will be your sidestand on the right and alternator cover on your left.
Regarding parts I (and I presume the rest of you) don't like getting touched, how much lean can you get (with rearsets) before the sidestand/alt cover start getting manhandled by the black stuff? I would have thought that the limit of the rear tyre profile would have to be passed (ie lowside) for this to happen!
ps - on my bike the sidestand is on the left...
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How long's a piece of string?JL wrote:
Regarding parts I (and I presume the rest of you) don't like getting touched, how much lean can you get (with rearsets) before the sidestand/alt cover start getting manhandled by the black stuff? I would have thought that the limit of the rear tyre profile would have to be passed (ie lowside) for this to happen!
depends on ride height amongst other factors.
I've never had anything touch down with my rearsets (other than my belly pan) but I have heard of exhaust cans touching down and the alternator cover (although I don't believe this is a problem if you hang off enough).
In all cases, you have got to be giving it large on the track for this to happen

- JL
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Yep, I can see where you're coming from and it would definitely have to be reserved for some some serious track shenanigans! Would love to see it in actionphuk72 wrote:How long's a piece of string?
...
In all cases, you have got to be giving it large on the track for this to happen
I guess the positive side of having low pegs is that it teaches you how to hang off!
- Quan-Time
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i can get my peg down before i get my knee down. Stock pegs tho. if you dont breathe heavy often, you will after the bike kicks after you scrape a peg.. always gets me going.. its an indication to move my fat ass off the seat and ride properly and not lazy (in track conditions.. never done it on the road).
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- JL
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It's not too hard to get those stock pegs scraping, eh? I know what you mean about that kick - when I first got my trixie I was working in a (fairly) remote area with very nice twisties, beautiful surface, great visibility and next to nowt traffic. (Damn I miss those roads in FNQ!) Anyway, I can still remember the first time I got kicked - had done the same corner many times and had it to the point where both the knee and peg were scraping very comfortably (very light peg mind you) and consistently. Then being very silly tried to push (lean and throttle) that little bit extra and discovered what happens when too much weight is on the peg and off the rear! *KickKickKick* and *bang* straight up (with much puckering of the posterior). Tried it a couple more times on both sides and had enough of scaring myself, then pondered if sticky sports tyres would slide rather than skip like that. Hmmm... I really do need to do a track dayQuan-Time wrote:i can get my peg down before i get my knee down. Stock pegs tho. if you dont breathe heavy often, you will after the bike kicks after you scrape a peg.. always gets me going.. its an indication to move my fat ass off the seat and ride properly and not lazy (in track conditions.. never done it on the road).
