Brake disk bolt removal.........

trixynut · Post by **trixynut** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:57 pm

......when you've knackered the bolt!!

5 out of 6 came out with some 3-1 oil and a 4.5mm allen key and small extension bar but........

......the spanner slipped round in one of the little mofo's and that's that: the hex hole is now rounded (I think the bolt is actually made of cheese!)

Anyone got any clever advice or suggestions please!?!

Dave.

Killerwhale · Post by **Killerwhale** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:26 pm

trixynut wrote:......when you've knackered the bolt!!

5 out of 6 came out with some 3-1 oil and a 4.5mm allen key and small extension bar but........

......the spanner slipped round in one of the little mofo's and that's that: the hex hole is now rounded (I think the bolt is actually made of cheese!)

Anyone got any clever advice or suggestions please!?!

Dave.

You got a small dremel? Could use it to make the hex bolt into a standard vodka/orangejuice one.....big mofo screwdriver and maybe a swedish bacho on there.....!?
Otherwise same thing but smack it with an impact!?

honkdawillydahonk · Post by **honkdawillydahonk** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 10:02 pm

Hammer in an oversize star drive bit instead....... a bit of heat wouldn't go amiss as well.......

Post by **Max** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 12:52 am

I use a chisel, tapping on the head first with a hammer to loosen the crud (not mine, though that might help too) then at a 45 degree angle counter clockwise around the bolt. Too sharp a chisel will just cut off pieces.

HansJ · Post by **HansJ** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:09 am

I'd do it as Honk says (provided star=torx?). Give it some serious (and I mean no sissy blows here, hit it hard) blows with a hammer first. Heat is also good, just beware of heating the bearings too much. If You get a good grip with the torx-bit, also try tightening instead of loosening, this might actually help as well. Re-fitting the bolts next to the one that is knackered, this will decrease the tension on it.

Quan-Time · Post by **Quan-Time** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:17 am

good technique is get a mate.. hammer and a pin punch.

Put the allen key in the hole, so its at its best fit (yes i know its ugly, but stay with me)

Get your mate to "stake" each side, meaning, put the pin punch ~1-2mm away from a flat side of the allen key, and deform the bolt.. Repeat this to all 6 sides, or only 5 if you cant get into the other side.

The allen key should now be fairly firm in there.. Then get him to select a pin hole he has already made, but now do the same but at 90deg to last time, meaning, while you slightly apply pressure to undo the bolt, he should be whacking the bolt head in the anti clockwise direction..

Ive done it many times to all sorts of bolts.. Last option is weld your allen key to the head, repeat process.. gets em out..

When you re-assemble PLEASE put on some never seeze or a LIGHT touch of grease to the thread.. Lock it up with NEW bolts (tightly) and you should be set to take them out in 5 years fairly hassle free.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/allen_bolt_nightmare.htm

HARHAR !! found the exact guide i was looking for.. This is an old tradesman secret..

goodluck with it

RAMSY SLIDER · Post by **RAMSY SLIDER** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:34 am

HI
BEST WAY I FOUND IS TO WELD A M10 NUT ONTO THE DAMAGED BOLT.
THE HEAT TRANSFER LOOSENS ANY LOCKTITE OR CRUD ON THE THREADS!!! THIS WORKED FINE FOR ME AN MY REAR DISC.

Post by **phuk72** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:42 am

No further advice on how to remove but I would say that using those crappy L shaped 'keys' is a recipe for disaister.

Invest in some decent sockets as these are made to exact tolerances and also allow you to use an extention bar.

JACKO · Post by **JACKO** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 1:34 pm

You could also do what i had to do and drill the bastard out.
Its a bit fiddly but if you start off with a 3 or 4mm drill and make sure you get it central its not too bad.
I had to dill four out when i powder-coated the wheels and the last one was stainless which made it even more of a bastard.

Seems to be when the centre hub gets water in it the pins stick thru and start to rust at the end.

Jacko

trixynut · Post by **trixynut** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 1:39 pm

OK guys, thanks for the ideas.

Bit wary about using a chisel or sawing/cutting a slot in the head as I can see me taking half the head of the bolt off completely and ending up having to drill it out.

As I've not got welding kit, I'll try a star drive bit hammered in or punching the sides of the hold to make the allen key a snug fit again.

Cheers,

Dave.

Greg · Post by **Greg** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:31 pm

Dave - the torx or star headed bit is the way to go... ask me how I know! I also used a windy gun... one of those pneumatic impact wrench chaps the tyre fitters use to whack off wheel-nuts. I had a moment when I thought it was going to phuck the job, but it just "brrrrrapapapapapppppped" off nicely in the end. I used Plus-Gas as a releasing fluid, IMVHO it has more penetrating ability than WD40, and if you can, use the extension tube to soak the back of the bolt rather than squirting just the head - that way there's more chance that the fluid will get to the threads.

DON'T DON'T DON'T try and punch the head of the bold to re-snug the key... you've already mashed the bolt , and mashing it again is just not going to leave it hard enough to take the torque required to spin it out.

I'll put a caveat here in that I used this method as a second to last resort as I 'd screwed up the bolt with the hex driver. If the torx driver didn't work then it would have been a drill and re-tap job ...

Best of luck

Greg

trixynut · Post by **trixynut** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:36 pm

OK guys, cracked it!!

Tried hammering in a stardrive/prodrive bit, but it wouldn't grip: think the hole was a bit 'dished' inside, so...

...cut a groove across the top with a junior hacksaw, made another cut at a slight angle to remove a small 'wedge, and...

...hit the new groove with a big cold chisel and an even bigger hammer and the mutha turned!! Finished it off with a pair of molegrips. The bolt thread was as dry as a nun's minge: no penetrating oil had got in at all, and it was covered in loctite.

Total Cost:

New disc bolt from my Yam dealer: Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£1.05

Plaster for skinned knuckle: Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â£0.10

Sense of satisfaction for a job well done: PRICELESS!!!

..or maybe I was lucky!

Cheers for the advice.

Dave

Post by **Max** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 6:00 am

Told ya so...

A big cold chisel will do it every time.

Greg · Post by **Greg** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:42 am

That's where I'm going wrong then...

G

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Brake disk bolt removal.........

Brake disk bolt removal.........

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