Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

dandywarhol wrote:Why do you need a ride height adjuster if you buy the correct length unit?

Agreed this could all get too complicated that's why I want a shock that's easy to adjust

For a road bike, the ride height/spring rate/ dog bone length are basically set and forget anyhow due to being a compromise to deal with all sorts of riding terrain and conditions so all this would/should be done when first setting up the bike.
That's why you'll find most road bikes with a swing arm angle around 8* and plusher suspension so it promotes a little more squat.

And as your tyres wear it all has an impact on the frame/suspension geometry anyhow.
(notice how nice and nimble the steering becomes again once those old squared off tyres have been removed ...
or new fork oil/ rear shock oil service... )
These things constantly change but are not really noticeable to most as they are subtle changes over time.


Track spring rates are usually a little stiffer spring and steeper swing arm angles around 12* so they promote just enough or very little squatting of the rear end and better drive out of the corner and not raising the front end which will make you understeer and run wide out of the corner. (but no squat at all would promote wheel spin because there is no suspension movement when transitioning from a weighted front end from braking to acceleration out of the corner )
Ride height is usually only manipulated once set to deal with different track and weather conditions / tyre wear as such .


Gearing choice and chain angle comes into play here too on how it pulls and works in conjunction with squat/anti squat.
That's why it's usually better to run a larger rear sprocket to increase the chain angle but that's another story in conjunction with axle position and tyre choice and profiles and construction when trying to run 10 10ths .

cobbadiggabuddyblooo wrote:

davamb wrote:I thought the standard shock was an Ohlins unit and responded well to a rebuild and setup to your weight?

Yamaha owned Ohlins back in them days so they manufactured their own cheaper version persey ....

Aaah I see, cheers Cobba.

I had mine rebuilt and I'm very happy with the outcome given the cost.
Yet I would be misleading not mentioning that the Wilbers 641 on the CBR600F2) is a completely different (superior) level.

OEM rear shock needs a bump stop replacement. How to break the shock to replace it please?

Groganator wrote:OEM rear shock needs a bump stop replacement. How to break the shock to replace it please?

If you are not sure how to strip the rear shock, have a good read of the factory workshop manual, it's clear and concise. Most people leave the shock to the professionals to rebuild as they require specialist tools and re-gassing once striped (dangerous to strip if not correctly de-pressurised).
If the bump stop is missing then the rest of the shock will most likely need going over, contact one of the numerous suspension rebuilding company's in Melbourne and get some quotes.

There are some wonderfull replacement shocks, but it all depends on the depth of your pocket..