Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Ive been speaking to MCT about suspension options, whether to get my stock shock rebuilt & revalved or go the whole hog & buy a new one. I would go for a basic shock (Wilburs, Nitron, Hagon)? Also what to do with the forks MCT do a rebuild & respring for around £200. I'm no suspension expert just want a well set up good handling bike. MCT are local to me so it makes sense to use them maybe another suspension expert would point me in another direction. Be interested to hear some opinions but dont want to go down the R6 or ZX10 shock route.

I thought the standard shock was an Ohlins unit and responded well to a rebuild and setup to your weight?

I just ordered a replacement shock from Nitron last week.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycl ... race-shock

No question rebuilding the original shock will be an improvement but if you are interested in really making a difference to the handling there is no question a good quality new replacement which has been built for your weight and riding style will be a big improvement over the stock shock

I did a lot of research and decided to go for a Nitron as they offer a modern shock, specifically for the TRX which is custom build and well priced.

I went for their top of the range trx shock but if i reckon there lower level shock are also very good and well priced compared to the competition

It is worth looking into this shock

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycl ... port-shock

and this video is informative

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnGljLug1Zk

I will report back once i get mine

oh, other interesting thing about the base Nitron shock is that it is not an emulsion shock. ie the oil and nitrogen are not mixed in he shock body.

Most non-piggy back shocks you see like Hagon or Yss are emulsion shocks but in the Nitron the oil and nitrogen are separated by a floating piston

http://www.nitron.co.uk/files/nitron_mo ... manual.pdf

I had a stock shock rebuild once. When I said thanks, the guy from the workshop said: you're welcome but never again!
Apperently, the stock shock is a PITA to open up and to properly close again.
I think the stock shock is not bad at all ( all be it in good working order of course), especially with a hyperpro spring.

I run a YZF750R öhlins now, but it took a while to get it right! Complete rebuild and adjusted damping.

I've just had a stock shock rebuilt here in Brisbane by Rodney at RAD Motorcycle Shocky Repairs http://www.radmotorcycleshockyrepairs.com.au/.

The job took four days and cost A$190. No mention was made of any difficulties at all. He said he'd done a few TRXs.

The Nitron does look good its one i would consider if i go for a new unit, i'm interested to know if anyone has found a really good set up with stock forks, alternative springs & oil weights/volumes

IMO the forks are the worse of the suspension, although a stock rear unit will be past its best by now.
Race Tech emulators are the way to go if you don't want to change the complete front end. I have an Ohlins in the rear and RT emulators and 0.95 springs. It took a while to get the front end sorted because the Ohlins worked so well but got there in the end.

I'm also fitting a set of YSS emulators to a friends TDM900 shortly - I'll keep you posted on how they compare to Race Tech http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulators

Have a nitron rear shock on my bike and I am very happy 6 it.

Seriously considering Shock Factory M shock, pretty much same spec as Nitron for £350 including vat & delivery no ride height adjuster though

Why do you need a ride height adjuster if you buy the correct length unit?

To manipulate swing arm angle and rear end squat issues which can push you wide running out of corner when on the gas.

cobbadiggabuddyblooo wrote:To manipulate swing arm angle and rear end squat issues which can push you wide running out of corner when on the gas.

Aye, fair 'nuff but there's a few more things which can make you run wide on her majesty's highways, like errant cats and kuntz on their mobile phones

Good point to note while on this subject. The difference between adjusting ride height via shock length Vs dog bone length.
Lifting the arse end by a longer shock length doesn't change the leverage factor from the dog bone length which is 1 factor that dictates your spring rate.

So if you change the dog bone length to a shorter length( for eg..-10mm yzf 750 ) you'll lift the rear and give you a slightly steeper swing arm angle but because the leverage factor has changed your spring rate will be slightly stiffer.
Imagine your using 30nm of torque just as an imaginary figure ,pushing upon the std rear end and let's just say the bike rear end drops 30mm.
Now if you have shorter yzf 750 dog bones and apply the same 30nm of torque the rear will drop less because you don't have the same leverage factor as with the longer std dog bones so you would need a slightly softer spring to get the same 30nm/30mm movement factor.
Remember you'll need to tweak your rebound and compression damping too to deal with the stiffer spring rate with the shorter dog bones....

davamb wrote:I thought the standard shock was an Ohlins unit and responded well to a rebuild and setup to your weight?

Yamaha owned Ohlins back in them days so they manufactured their own cheaper version persey ...
It's why the YZF750 has an Ohlins sticker on the rear end.
The YZF 750 rear shock also have a slightly larger piston / body and oil volume than the trx std shock and a threaded ring for preload adjustment..