Honing tools

[albertorondm]

Hi folks

I've just been read a an earlier posting on replacing valve stem seals. It would seem I have a similar problem in that my trx is getting through a lot of oil, reading all the coments would suggest that my bores are glazzed and could do with a bit of a scrub.
There looks to be a couple of honing tools on the market and I'm going to plumb for the Flexi Hone as it looks to be the easiest and cheepest option.

My query is, what is the standard bore diameter of an 850 so I can order the correct size honing tool ???

I have limited time and space to work on the bike so I'm trying to get as much together before I start so I don't have the motor split for weeks on end.

Also I've heard that changing the front end for one off a Tcat helps to improve handling, is this the prefered option as the standard setup's a bit twitchy.

Nice web site

Cheers A

[sanddune51]

The standard Trx bore diameter IS 89.5mm.

Trx forks are generally considered by most to be a bit cheap and nasty. Anything you replace them with is almost guaranteed to be an improvement. I fitted inexpensive early Yamaha R6 43mm Right Way Upppers to mine and they are a massive improvement. Thundercat forks will do the job admirably too.

Mark.

[albertorondm]

Cheers for that Mark.

The flexhone for that size looks to be about £40 plus some post. Will find out better tomorrow and post it if anyones interested.

I'll be keeping my eyes peeled a suitable front end upgrade. I must admit, a quick raz round my favoured road on sunday wasn't inspiring.

Thanks again A

[albertorondm]

£40 was an understatement.
A company called Pacehigh Ltd do them for £66.53, seems alot for 10 mins use but its the tool for the job. Maybe I can lease it out for a resonable fee, belly pan, cake who knows?
cheers A

[Smithers]

At the risk of sounding casual this is what I do for bores that are not lipped and when replacing rings: use # 240 wet and dry carborundum paper to rough up the bores. Use two or three of fingers bunched together with a 1/4 to 1/2 a sheet of fresh "wet and dry" wrapped around them. Scrub the bores, from each end, in a manner that produces an abrasion pattern that approximates a 45 degree cross hatch on the cylinder walls (that's important). The objective is to remove the smooth and varnished cylinder wall surface, so this procedure need not take long. Use CRC or kerosene as the lubricant to stop the carborundum paper from loading (clogging)....... if the bores are lipped then measurement is required to ascertain whether they can be serviced within spec by honing, using a fixed stone hone ie. Sunnen, or just be de-glazed using a cheap floating type hone, or my method that has has yet to let me down......unless your trx is a high mileage machine I doubt whether it would have a lip worth addressing but if so then it may pay to see you local friendly motor re-conditioner...... good luck, my hunch is that excessive oil consumption is often caused by bore glazing with these machines but on the other hand most do like their oil anyway and we live with it....cheers

[albertorondm]

Casuals good, any information for doing this kind of work will be taken on board. I have however gone and ordered a flexihone dirrect from the US £37.50 with postage. I've another project in the shed with a similar problem so I'll definitley try out your suggestions. Thanks, much appreciated.

Just to let you know my oil consumption is 1lt to 1000 mile.

Cheers A

[Smithers]

At 1 litre per 1000 miles I would be getting a bit peeved at a bike's appetite for oil as well, though that may not be outside specs. for a TRX. Good luck with the project. That flexi-hone sounds like a good investment.

[davamb]

Went down this path with a deglaze and new valve stem seals and oil consumption virtually vanished.
One thing you MUST do however, is to bed the new rings in. You MUST load up the engine within the first 50-odd ks post rebuild or you will be throwing away all your good work. Loading the engine does not involve revving its tits off or abusing it in any way, it means opening the throttle wide over the low to mid rev ranges to put a load on the engine and then shutting off the gas to reverse the loading. I found a bit of deserted road and did this late at night - spent an hour running up and down the backblocks of Warrandyte with no-one around to run up my derriere.

[albertorondm]

Thanks for all the advise I'll be sure to put them into practice. Hopefully i'll get some enjoyable miles in.

Safe ride. A

[cycloneranger]

Went down this path with a deglaze and new valve stem seals and oil consumption virtually vanished.
One thing you MUST do however, is to bed the new rings in. You MUST load up the engine within the first 50-odd ks post rebuild or you will be throwing away all your good work. Loading the engine does not involve revving its tits off or abusing it in any way, it means opening the throttle wide over the low to mid rev ranges to put a load on the engine and then shutting off the gas to reverse the loading. I found a bit of deserted road and did this late at night - spent an hour running up and down the backblocks of Warrandyte with no-one around to run up my derriere.

Good advice! I would also add do NOT use a top quality synthetic oil for the running in period or the rings will not bed in. Use standard oil and change the oil and filter after the run in period.

[pbear62]

What Davamb said "+1"

Did rings & stem seals in mine in 2009 (done 20,000kms since then) - hasn't used any oil since.

I ran it in on Yamalube mineral oil, changed oil & filter after running in & have stayed with the same brand
of oil since then - changing it every 4000kms - perfect!!

Andy

[Rod.s]

Hi folks

I've just been read a an earlier posting on replacing valve stem seals. It would seem I have a similar problem in that my trx is getting through a lot of oil, reading all the coments would suggest that my bores are glazzed and could do with a bit of a scrub.
There looks to be a couple of honing tools on the market and I'm going to plumb for the Flexi Hone as it looks to be the easiest and cheepest option.

My query is, what is the standard bore diameter of an 850 so I can order the correct size honing tool ???

I have limited time and space to work on the bike so I'm trying to get as much together before I start so I don't have the motor split for weeks on end.

Also I've heard that changing the front end for one off a Tcat helps to improve handling, is this the prefered option as the standard setup's a bit twitchy.

Nice web site

Cheers A

......if you are going to hone your own barrels, don't forget to wash the barrels with HOT water and lots of soap. This will remove the imbedded metal and abrasive particles on the bore walls. If you miss this step the ring will wear out prematurely, almost half the life.

And always fit new rings after a hone