fork adjustment

[Kenvis Repesco]

My front forks are rock solid, can anyone tell me the correct way to make them a little softer. There are two adjusters at the top of each fork leg, are these for firming up or softening. Thanks again David.

[Killerwhale]

My front forks are rock solid, can anyone tell me the correct way to make them a little softer. There are two adjusters at the top of each fork leg, are these for firming up or softening. Thanks again David.

Big one, back it off and it´s softer (look at the grooves) less preload.
Small one (4 clicks) are rebound damping...if at one it can feel boink boink boink...
After you can turn one full turn you have first click..

After that you have to check oil level, how old is the oil? I know i had water and guck in mine at 30k km...and it stank!

[fung]

perhaps post up a picture of your setup, coz if the previous owner has lowered the rear without lowering the front to match, the forks will feel hard.
too much damping will make them feel hard.
too much spring preload will make them hard.
too little fork leg protruding will make the forks feel hard unless the rear has been raised up as well.
too soft in the rear will make the front feel hard in relation to.

So here is some info for you if you don't already have it.

Standard Settings for TRX850 (based on a Japanese rider i guess)

Fork Tubes
the top of the fork tube should protrude 18.5mm above the top of the handlebar holder (i.e. clipon clamp).

Fork Spring Preload - there are eight lines on the preload adjuster.the sixth line should just be visible.

Rebound Dampening front fork - four positions available.
turn the screw clockwise until no clicks are heard. std is two clicks clockwise.


Rear Shock Spring Preload - seven positions - third notch is std

Rebound Damping
clockwise to increase,anti-clockwise to decrease damping.
- wind in clockwise (as you look up from the bottom) the wheel on the bottom of the shock till it stops - twenty clicks - std is eight clicks back.

Compression Damping
clockwise to increase, anti-clockwise to decrease
- wind in adjuster on remote reservoir clockwise till it stops - twenty clicks - std ten clicks out clockwise.

setting static sag on a TRX

http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa18 ... thaTRX.jpg

i bought dogbones and rearset plates off Kayla from the forum; this raised the rear by 20mm, then i dropped the front 10mm, put on a sticky power pure and i am well pleased.

hope this helps mate.
cheers
fung

[Kenvis Repesco]

Thanks alot...thats ace.

[phuk72]

for the sake of £10 and a few hours work, change the fork oil

[guysie99]

setting static sag on a TRX

http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa18 ... thaTRX.jpg

i bought dogbones and rearset plates off Kayla from the forum; this raised the rear by 20mm, then i dropped the front 10mm, put on a sticky power pure and i am well pleased.

hope this helps mate.
cheers
fung

Anyone else struggling to open up that photo bucket link? Am I doing it wrong?

[Snod Blatter]

too little fork leg protruding will make the forks feel hard unless the rear has been raised up as well.

Is that so, mine are only ~5mm above the top of the clip ons. When the snow buggers off I'll have a go at getting it somewhere closer to right.

And guysie that link for the picture will never work because part of it is missing

[guysie99]

Yeah man, Its doing my head in. I've been scouring the forum and internets for recommended static and rider sag on the TRX. The only thing I have found are general articles or a couple of opinions but everything is different It would be nice to have a couple of sources to validate some stuff.
From what I have gathered so far I want both front and back to be the same around 15mm static sag and 30mm with rider sag. The other thing I might try is just putting a cable tie on the fork, going nuts (use bike under braking accelerating ect) and then seeing if its close to bottoming out. Adjusting pre load so its 10mm from bottoming out.