Handling help
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Handling help
Seeking advice in altering the handling and riding of my Rex. I have ridden a cruiser for most of my riding career so am not used to leaning a bike over too much. I can't seem to lean the Rex over as much as it can and feel like I h ave to give it heaps of encouragement to lean over. I think it comes down to one of two things.
1) my balls are not big enough?
2) the bike is not set up quite right.
The bloke I bought the bike off weighed in at 100kg at least and I am only 65kg. I wonder whether the rear suspension is too stiff. I have had a look at tyre pressure and it seams okay. What should that run at?
Also, how sensitive is the rear suspension setting when you adjust? Do I need to turn it a dozen times to make a difference or just a couple? I don't want to create a dangerous situation for myself.
Any other tips and hints on handling are appreciated. Do I need to get my bum off the side of the seat into corners or should I expect it to lean easier?
Cheers.
1) my balls are not big enough?
2) the bike is not set up quite right.
The bloke I bought the bike off weighed in at 100kg at least and I am only 65kg. I wonder whether the rear suspension is too stiff. I have had a look at tyre pressure and it seams okay. What should that run at?
Also, how sensitive is the rear suspension setting when you adjust? Do I need to turn it a dozen times to make a difference or just a couple? I don't want to create a dangerous situation for myself.
Any other tips and hints on handling are appreciated. Do I need to get my bum off the side of the seat into corners or should I expect it to lean easier?
Cheers.
- fung
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Re: Handling help
good to see you are on something with grunt and ground clearance now
search the forum for my thread with the standard suspension settings.
you may find that going back to std (for a 70kg rider) and setting cold tyre pressures (33/36, 34/38 or 36/40) it might be a bit better.
most of us have moved the fork tubes thru the top clamp 10mm or more extra (std is 18.5mm) and many of us have raised the rear using shorter link plates.
it makes the bike turn in better and change direction quicker.
cheers
fung
EDIT
i found the data for you, saves the search eh;)
Fork Tubes
the top of the fork tube should protrude 18.5mm above the top of the handlebar holder (i.e. clipon clamp). recommend to add 10mm
Fork Spring Preload - there are eight lines on the preload adjuster.the sixth line should just be visible.
Rebound Dampening front fork - four positions available.
turn the screw clockwise until no clicks are heard. std is two clicks clockwise.
Rear Shock Spring Preload - seven positions - third notch is std
Rebound Damping
clockwise to increase,anti-clockwise to decrease damping.
- wind in clockwise (as you look up from the bottom) the wheel on the bottom of the shock till it stops - twenty clicks - std is eight clicks back.
Compression Damping
clockwise to increase, anti-clockwise to decrease
- wind in adjuster on remote reservoir clockwise till it stops - twenty clicks - std ten clicks out clockwise.
setting static sag on a TRX
http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa18 ... thaTRX.jpg
i bought dogbones and rearset plates off Kayla from the forum; this raised the rear by 20mm, then i dropped the front 10mm, put on a sticky power pure and i am well pleased.
hope this helps mate.
cheers
fung
search the forum for my thread with the standard suspension settings.
you may find that going back to std (for a 70kg rider) and setting cold tyre pressures (33/36, 34/38 or 36/40) it might be a bit better.
most of us have moved the fork tubes thru the top clamp 10mm or more extra (std is 18.5mm) and many of us have raised the rear using shorter link plates.
it makes the bike turn in better and change direction quicker.
cheers
fung
EDIT
i found the data for you, saves the search eh;)
Fork Tubes
the top of the fork tube should protrude 18.5mm above the top of the handlebar holder (i.e. clipon clamp). recommend to add 10mm
Fork Spring Preload - there are eight lines on the preload adjuster.the sixth line should just be visible.
Rebound Dampening front fork - four positions available.
turn the screw clockwise until no clicks are heard. std is two clicks clockwise.
Rear Shock Spring Preload - seven positions - third notch is std
Rebound Damping
clockwise to increase,anti-clockwise to decrease damping.
- wind in clockwise (as you look up from the bottom) the wheel on the bottom of the shock till it stops - twenty clicks - std is eight clicks back.
Compression Damping
clockwise to increase, anti-clockwise to decrease
- wind in adjuster on remote reservoir clockwise till it stops - twenty clicks - std ten clicks out clockwise.
setting static sag on a TRX
http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa18 ... thaTRX.jpg
i bought dogbones and rearset plates off Kayla from the forum; this raised the rear by 20mm, then i dropped the front 10mm, put on a sticky power pure and i am well pleased.
hope this helps mate.
cheers
fung
Last edited by fung on Sat Mar 17, 2012 8:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Handling help
G'day mayhem, welcome!
Exactly what are you feeling uncomfortable about?
Is it fear of slipping?
is it the angle you are on?
is it the different riding position?
Your exact feelings will help with the answers.
For starters, find a nice quiet, twisty road (good luck with that in the west!)
then go back and forth on it repeatedly. Dont try to go fast! Aim to be smooth, try to pick a smooth, flowing line throught the corners. Do not adjust your speed too much through the corners, just get used to the angles and you will learn to trust the science soon enough.
As you become comfortable, move about on the bike through the corner and note what it does (it will be less than you think) this will give you increased confidence. Try to look a long way in front of you at all times. Keep your head vertical, point your chin at where you want to go.
Its mostly a mind thing.
Self talk-
I CAN get around this corner (repeated over and over)
Know that the bike can go around this corner if Valentino, Casey or Wayne Gardners grandmother was on YOUR bike then THEY could go around the corner you are looking at. Therefor you can. Do this for each corner.
You need to repeat these mantras BEFORE you reach the corner (that you will reach, one day) waaaaay too fast.
That way it will be just another corner, you will point your chin around it (instead of at the armco that you are about to hit)
there will be a little more sweat on your brow, a little less rubber on your tyre and a little less blood in your fingers BUT
you will get around it because its just another corner and Wayne Gardners granny could do it at this speed.
Ride your own ride too.
Exactly what are you feeling uncomfortable about?
Is it fear of slipping?
is it the angle you are on?
is it the different riding position?
Your exact feelings will help with the answers.
For starters, find a nice quiet, twisty road (good luck with that in the west!)
then go back and forth on it repeatedly. Dont try to go fast! Aim to be smooth, try to pick a smooth, flowing line throught the corners. Do not adjust your speed too much through the corners, just get used to the angles and you will learn to trust the science soon enough.
As you become comfortable, move about on the bike through the corner and note what it does (it will be less than you think) this will give you increased confidence. Try to look a long way in front of you at all times. Keep your head vertical, point your chin at where you want to go.
Its mostly a mind thing.
Self talk-
I CAN get around this corner (repeated over and over)
Know that the bike can go around this corner if Valentino, Casey or Wayne Gardners grandmother was on YOUR bike then THEY could go around the corner you are looking at. Therefor you can. Do this for each corner.
You need to repeat these mantras BEFORE you reach the corner (that you will reach, one day) waaaaay too fast.
That way it will be just another corner, you will point your chin around it (instead of at the armco that you are about to hit)
there will be a little more sweat on your brow, a little less rubber on your tyre and a little less blood in your fingers BUT
you will get around it because its just another corner and Wayne Gardners granny could do it at this speed.
Ride your own ride too.
there are only 3 types of people in the whole world
those who can count
and those who cannot
those who can count
and those who cannot
- schmiffee
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Re: Handling help
From what I can tell, I had the same feeling with my first TRX. When bought from the shop the forks were level with the top of the top triple clamp and it was a dog in the corners, so if it hasn't been done already, think about lowering the triples down the forks the aforementioned distance and this will help tremendously with it feeling 'willing' to lean in the corners...
Understeer - when you hit the fence with the front of the bike.
Oversteer - when you hit the fence with the rear of the bike.
Horsepower - how fast you hit the fence.
Torque - how far you take the fence with you.
Oversteer - when you hit the fence with the rear of the bike.
Horsepower - how fast you hit the fence.
Torque - how far you take the fence with you.
- M.V.
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Re: Handling help
Yep, mine was the same, handled like a dog. Very reluctant to tip in, then would fall quite suddenly.schmiffee wrote:From what I can tell, I had the same feeling with my first TRX. When bought from the shop the forks were level with the top of the top triple clamp and it was a dog in the corners, so if it hasn't been done already, think about lowering the triples down the forks the aforementioned distance and this will help tremendously with it feeling 'willing' to lean in the corners...
Check this first, seems to be a common mistake.
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Re: Handling help
+1 here...the handling was plain weirdschmiffee wrote:From what I can tell, I had the same feeling with my first TRX. When bought from the shop the forks were level with the top of the top triple clamp and it was a dog in the corners, so if it hasn't been done already, think about lowering the triples down the forks the aforementioned distance and this will help tremendously with it feeling 'willing' to lean in the corners...
- Stu99
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Re: Handling help
Yep +2. After wanting a TRX for years, when I bought my first one I at first wondered what I had done. It handled plain horrible, but all can be fixed if it has been set up wrong.Dav wrote:+1 here...the handling was plain weirdschmiffee wrote:From what I can tell, I had the same feeling with my first TRX. When bought from the shop the forks were level with the top of the top triple clamp and it was a dog in the corners, so if it hasn't been done already, think about lowering the triples down the forks the aforementioned distance and this will help tremendously with it feeling 'willing' to lean in the corners...
It must be true, I read it on the internet.
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Re: Handling help
To be honest, if you're just an 'average' rider looking to ride and corner at 'average' speeds and angles of lean ....
I wouldn't stray too far from the factory settings.
Sure, bring the forks up thro' the triple-clamps 5 or 10 mm which will improve the front end feel, but much beyond that (and playing with the rear ride height) is probably better left until you've got used to not riding it like a cruiser.
Tyre pressures and chain adjustment have a big effect on the handling too. A fraction too slack is better than a fraction too tight ...
We're still talking bikes here Mince )
As for the actual riding, What they say is true ... "You hit what you're looking at"
So look at where you want to end up (ie not the armco or the tree) and the TRX will take you there.
Some folks like to move around all over the bike when cornering (Rossi , Bayliss , Red Rex , etc) , others sit straight and are just as fast (Hailwood , Duke , Gardner's gran) , so do what you feel most comfortable with.
That's my 2P worth done.
Just enjoy the ride (and listen to what the other guys have said too!)
I wouldn't stray too far from the factory settings.
Sure, bring the forks up thro' the triple-clamps 5 or 10 mm which will improve the front end feel, but much beyond that (and playing with the rear ride height) is probably better left until you've got used to not riding it like a cruiser.
Tyre pressures and chain adjustment have a big effect on the handling too. A fraction too slack is better than a fraction too tight ...
We're still talking bikes here Mince )
As for the actual riding, What they say is true ... "You hit what you're looking at"
So look at where you want to end up (ie not the armco or the tree) and the TRX will take you there.
Some folks like to move around all over the bike when cornering (Rossi , Bayliss , Red Rex , etc) , others sit straight and are just as fast (Hailwood , Duke , Gardner's gran) , so do what you feel most comfortable with.
That's my 2P worth done.
Just enjoy the ride (and listen to what the other guys have said too!)
Rubber side down, Red side up is my preferred riding style.
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- fung
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Re: Handling help
as an aside, if you raise the rear when you drop the front, you don't need to modify the sidestand to compensate
cheers
fung
cheers
fung
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Re: Handling help
Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate your feedback and have a couple of things to think about. I am worried about slipping and find myself looking at the oil slick rather than looking at the line I want. I am aware this doesn't help. Still, the more I lean the less stable I feel. I have to work hard to get it to lean much.
Now for a stupid question from a bloke who is not mechanically trained or very experienced: how hard is it to drop the front down and is there a guide available? Looks fiddly and there must be some ' must know ' info. Can anyone post picks or post a link to help out? What does the triple look like after the drop?
Also, I rode my Rex at night for the first time yesterday and discovered that the backlight on my speedo is out. Anyone had this happen? I am concerned it is one of those issues that will take a lot of time and still be quite easy to fix. I therefore don't want to pay anyone for it but am not bursting with spare hours at the moment. Any help appreciated.
Thanks fung for the imput on previous issue too. I will try the front fork drop and if I am not satisfied will experiment with the info you provided. Cheers.
Now for a stupid question from a bloke who is not mechanically trained or very experienced: how hard is it to drop the front down and is there a guide available? Looks fiddly and there must be some ' must know ' info. Can anyone post picks or post a link to help out? What does the triple look like after the drop?
Also, I rode my Rex at night for the first time yesterday and discovered that the backlight on my speedo is out. Anyone had this happen? I am concerned it is one of those issues that will take a lot of time and still be quite easy to fix. I therefore don't want to pay anyone for it but am not bursting with spare hours at the moment. Any help appreciated.
Thanks fung for the imput on previous issue too. I will try the front fork drop and if I am not satisfied will experiment with the info you provided. Cheers.
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Re: Handling help
Mate bought led lamps for the dash....a good lot of em from ebay at 3£....not bad!Mayhem wrote:Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate your feedback and have a couple of things to think about. I am worried about slipping and find myself looking at the oil slick rather than looking at the line I want. I am aware this doesn't help. Still, the more I lean the less stable I feel. I have to work hard to get it to lean much.
Now for a stupid question from a bloke who is not mechanically trained or very experienced: how hard is it to drop the front down and is there a guide available? Looks fiddly and there must be some ' must know ' info. Can anyone post picks or post a link to help out? What does the triple look like after the drop?
Also, I rode my Rex at night for the first time yesterday and discovered that the backlight on my speedo is out. Anyone had this happen? I am concerned it is one of those issues that will take a lot of time and still be quite easy to fix. I therefore don't want to pay anyone for it but am not bursting with spare hours at the moment. Any help appreciated.
Thanks fung for the imput on previous issue too. I will try the front fork drop and if I am not satisfied will experiment with the info you provided. Cheers.
- Mincehead
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Re: Handling help
Mayhem wrote:Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate your feedback and have a couple of things to think about. I am worried about slipping and find myself looking at the oil slick rather than looking at the line I want. I am aware this doesn't help. Still, the more I lean the less stable I feel. I have to work hard to get it to lean much.
Now for a stupid question from a bloke who is not mechanically trained or very experienced: how hard is it to drop the front down and is there a guide available? Looks fiddly and there must be some ' must know ' info. Can anyone post picks or post a link to help out? What does the triple look like after the drop?
Also, I rode my Rex at night for the first time yesterday and discovered that the backlight on my speedo is out. Anyone had this happen? I am concerned it is one of those issues that will take a lot of time and still be quite easy to fix. I therefore don't want to pay anyone for it but am not bursting with spare hours at the moment. Any help appreciated.
Thanks fung for the imput on previous issue too. I will try the front fork drop and if I am not satisfied will experiment with the info you provided. Cheers.
Pssst Mayhem.
Go to the downloads section of the forum then look at the parts pdf page 63 of 74, it`ll all become clear what`s involved in changing the clocks illumination bulbs and what you have to take apart to do it. Obviously the part numbers for the bulbs are there too but DON`T go to Yamaha to buy replacements any local car parts store should have them.
Oh and Kw is right you can jazz your clocks lighting up by using LED varients of T6.5 type bulbs, they`ll likely be brighter than the 1.7 watt originals and come in several colours too. Here`s the UK Ebay link:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... d&_sacat=0
How about some amber ones, I note these are located in Brisbane :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-T6-5-24-SM ... 5ad9f8699a
Infact if you visit the sellers shop `BioLiving Beauty` you`ll find they do blue, green, red and white LED versions.
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Re: Handling help
OK guys, here's a question for you which relates to the advice Mayhem has been given on fork settings:
18.5mm is the amount of forkleg protruding through the top triple clamp from standard but - is it measured
to the top of the chrome forkleg or to the top of the fork cap? Fork cap measures about 3mm - not much
I know but when people are suggesting "another 10mm or so" would be useful to know a starting point.
The top face of the triple clamp isn't perfectly finished either (being cast alloy) so this can vary the specs
as well.
Where do you all measure the protrusion - on the outside of the forkleg? (easiest to measure there)
18.5mm is the amount of forkleg protruding through the top triple clamp from standard but - is it measured
to the top of the chrome forkleg or to the top of the fork cap? Fork cap measures about 3mm - not much
I know but when people are suggesting "another 10mm or so" would be useful to know a starting point.
The top face of the triple clamp isn't perfectly finished either (being cast alloy) so this can vary the specs
as well.
Where do you all measure the protrusion - on the outside of the forkleg? (easiest to measure there)
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Re: Handling help
Yes, just measure from the fork slider / leg not from the top of the preload adjuster nut.
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