After Changing CCT- Cam Chain still slack

[Tominss]

Hello. I've been riding only for a couple of months and TRX850 is my first bike, please don't judge too hard. Right.. Had a rattling noise from the right side of the engine, so I've been advised that the simplest solution for that is new cam chain tensioner. After replacing it I was turning the engine with my ratchet key (as it was stated in manual), I've noticed that chain is still too loose. Does it means that I have to get a new chain, sprockets and plastic guiders?

[Mincehead]

LIKELY a chain only, you can fit a chain without removing the cylinder head so it`s not too drastic.
Take the tensioner back out, undo the four cam sprocket bolts (keep them paired to and with the sprockets), remove oil pumps and the chain can be lifted from the crank sprocket, through the tunnel and out of the motor.
I doubt the chain tensioner blade is worn but you can look down the tunnel to check it.
Oh one last thing, you were turning the motor over in the right direction I take it? The crankshaft should be turned anti-clockwise.

[Tominss]

Thank you Mincehead.
Yes I was turning it right as you've said- anti-clockwise. I've inspected the tensioner blades, visually I was unable to see any wear or tear at all.. The thing that made me cautious, is that after I took new tensioner out it was fully out, meaning that it was doing maximum tension. BTW bike is 1997 and has done 55k Mi. Would you please advise me how should I put the new chain in? Shall I assemble the "weak link" on the crank sprocket end?

Thanks.

[Mincehead]

Your cam chain is endless, you don`t need to worry about a joining link it comes out of the motor from the bottom after the oil pumps are removed.
I don`t know if you`ve got a manual but you should spend some time here:

http://www.trx850.com/hosted/manual/trxmanual.pdf (shhhh)

And for interest (search is your friend):

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3556&hilit=Cam+chain+replacement

[NWS870R]

Your cam chain isn't properly seated on the exhaust side - hopefully you've sorted that?

[Tominss]

Actually this is the problem! After changing cam chain tensioner, I cannot get the chain tensioned. Therefore with advise from you guys I've decided to change the chain.

[Mincehead]

Good idea anyway, they do tend to stretch, sometimes over quite low milages too.
I can rememeber one forum member going on about a cam chain stretched substantially after as little as 10,000 miles.
Oh and as NWS pointed out, watch that the chain is on the cam sprocket teeth properly, had you wound the motor over on the starter you could have damaged the cam sprockets!

[Tominss]

is there any chance for me to inspect the sprockets? Visually they look fine.

[Mincehead]

Generally unless the old cam chain had skipped over the teeth they tend to be ok for a couple of cam chain chainges at least. Although, you`ll notice from the Yamaha service guide that they recommend replacing them every time the chain is replaced. Of course best practice would be that but then Yamaha are looking to keep spares sales up too.
A good visual inspection looking for any bright marks, run a finger around and over the teeth feeling for any burrs etc will tell you if they are serviceable.

[Tominss]

Thanks Mincehead.

One more "stupid" question.. Shall I drain the oil prior taking off oil pump cover? I was looking up for this bit in manual, but the only thing it says is about removing oil pump, which obviously would involve draining the oil.

[Mincehead]

You will want to fill her with clean oil after after disturbing the oil pumps anyway So yes, it would be best / advisable, plus if you didn`t drain the oil tank you would end up with plenty of oil all about you.
Remember you`ll need to drain the oil from the oil tank, through the filter housing under the right side of the motor (follow the path of the oil hose from the back of the oil tank), AND drain the oil from the bottom of the motor via the drain on the bottom left of the crankcase too, best left to when the bike is on the side stand as she`ll drain better.
No need for expensive stuff, Halfords 10 W 40 semi-synthetic is what I use. You can go over to more expensive oil if you want (some do) but the Halfords own brand meets all the latest specifications and is all but the most highly tuned TRX should ever need.
While in Halfords you can get a new Champion oil filter too, they come with new o-rings and are great value for money.

[Tominss]

Thanks Mincehead. Good thing is that I've changed oil 60Mi ago... Ok, let's count it as a good flush of the engine.

[NWS870R]

If you only changed the oil 60 miles ago i wouldn't bother changing it just make sure you buy a new oil pump cover gasket - genuine Yam ones are only about £4 or so. Put the bike on its side stand before removing the cover & you'll lose only a thimble full of oil

[Mincehead]

Aye, your right NWS. The oil return hose is actually higher (or should be) than the level of oil in the tank so you should not need to drain the oil tank.
Not being anywhere near the bike and relying on my addled memory, the two gang up on me!
So tominss, you can save your fresh oil, if you wish.
You can clearly see the oil`s circulatory path here (page 36 of 306):

http://www.trx850.com/hosted/manual/trxmanual.pdf

[Rane850]

Errr...
I think there will come 3 liters of oil to your garage floor when you remove oilpumps. Oil intake hose is the one which will drain oil from tank.