Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

On each side of the engine, on the front of the engine, "behind" the exhaust pipes, there's a plastic cap. I removed these, and put a steel rod right through, with ca 10 cm sticking out on each side. Then it's just a matter of finding something of the right height, I use tri-pod car-jacks, put one under the right side of the steel-rod while the bike is leaned over on the side-stand, then I tilt the bike over to the right so the weight is on the tri-pod, and shove the other tri-pod under the rod on the left-hand. Perfect not only for wheel changing, but all work involved with the forks, steering head etc.

HansJ wrote:On each side of the engine, on the front of the engine, "behind" the exhaust pipes, there's a plastic cap. I removed these, and put a steel rod right through, with ca 10 cm sticking out on each side. Then it's just a matter of finding something of the right height, I use tri-pod car-jacks, put one under the right side of the steel-rod while the bike is leaned over on the side-stand, then I tilt the bike over to the right so the weight is on the tri-pod, and shove the other tri-pod under the rod on the left-hand. Perfect not only for wheel changing, but all work involved with the forks, steering head etc.

It´s a nice one!
mm of the steel rod?? Got to get me a set! ...good for polishing rims also!

Killerwhale wrote:It´s a nice one!
mm of the steel rod?? Got to get me a set! ...good for polishing rims also!

As I recall it, it was a 10 mm rod, but I am suffering from Alzheimer's light...

Here's what I did with those holes.

http://trx850.motomaniac.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56

Max wrote:Here's what I did with those holes.

http://trx850.motomaniac.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56

Hmppf, luxury, when I was a kid, we had to get up two hours before we went to bed...

Which reminds me... It's time for bed!

Hole through engine is 10mm, so rod needs to be 9mm or less, although 8mm plain steel rod will bend with the weight of the bike (I know!) so go for hardened or stainless rod.
Dave.

I use a couple of ratchet straps around the top of the frame / under the yokes and hoist it up on the beams in my garage.

Used to use a tree before I had this garage!

Suggest using a couple of large Allen head cap bolts as these are high tensile steel and will take the weight. That said, I turned up a couple of shafts on the lathe which work well. Will post the dimensions if anyone is interested.

I use a couple of ratchet straps around the top of the frame / under the yokes and hoist it up on the beams in my garage.

Phuk,

Did you do something similar for changing/removing the rear shock?

Vic

Did you do something similar for changing/removing the rear shock?

No I didn't - although there is no reason why you couldn't (as long as you attach to the middle of the frame by the the seat)

I threw mine up on a paddock stand and then used axle stands on the foot pegs (but I have non folding rearsets). Equally you can whip the exhaust off and place blocks under the engine.

those capped holes are for mounting a sump guard/bash plate onto a MKI TDM 850 (1991-1995) although the holes are there on the newer TDM's and TRX's these 2 bikes never had a bash plate fitted as standard from the factory. WiCk

Super Tenere might have done though maybe?

My (presumably all) bellypan fits using a bar through those holes.

burty wrote:Super Tenere might have done though maybe?

My (presumably all) bellypan fits using a bar through those holes.

ya how ya Burty, i tink the souper 10 had a bash plate mounted thru these holes too if memory serves me correctly

Burty,

My bellypan uses those holes with expanding rubber bungs to hold it in place rather than a rod.