Yamaha TRX850 Enthusiasts Forum

Brother in law gave me a free 4L container of Castrol GPS 10W50 (never opened) he bought it by mistake. I've always used Motul 5100. Ok to swap brands and use straight up, or would I have to do a "flushing" oil change? If that was the case I'll just go and buy another container of Motul and flog this lot off to someone else. Is GPS a good oil anyway?

Bob

OK to do. GPS is ok.

martin young wrote:OK to do. GPS is ok.

Ditto

Yep, Wombat, you'll be fine, GPS 10W50 is a semi-synthetic and so is 5100, even though Motul call it a "Synthetic blend". Same difference. No problem mixing and matching either way. Next time around I suggest you use Motul's 300V 15W50, it'll quieten the tappet rattle heaps.

Triton wrote:Yep, Wombat, you'll be fine, GPS 10W50 is a semi-synthetic and so is 5100, even though Motul call it a "Synthetic blend". Same difference. No problem mixing and matching either way. Next time around I suggest you use Motul's 300V 15W50, it'll quieten the tappet rattle heaps.

or if yer inna warum climate try 20w50, this will not burn off easily like 10w40 does, i'm running me TDM on it and it's burnt off a very small amount in 1,300 miles...bit too tick fer the weather over here in Blighty though so oil change to 15w50 asap.

i am on 10/50 motrex ,,still burns it ,,but i hope the flow has slowed down since Ive fitted a new gearbox oil seal ,,we will see

Penrite HPR15

Guy's, trolling through the Penrite web site I note that the HPR15 is not recommended for motorcycle engines , specifically wet clutch models. I'm sure I read on the bottle it was OK but perhaps the composition has now changed ?

A phone call to the Australian sales desk in Melbourne recommends using the Penrite Gas10 (10W) or for older (higher mileage) engines using the HPR Gas (20W). He specifically knew the TRX, as he recommended the Gas 20 for it's oil consumption and due to it having dry sump. Also commented that it would help with "gudgeon knock" due to it's firing order........ He went on to mention that Suzuki bearings are especially prone to problems with the detergent used in the HPR oils . Time for a rethink.

http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.a ... &langid=16

http://www.penrite.com.au/html/s02_arti ... _top_id=55

Mmmm oil,
Now then 10w40. The w stands for winter and is assosiated with the first number in this case the 10, this value refers to the oils viscocity when cold. You can pick an oil with a lower prefix number no problem but not a higher number as this would make it thicker when cold and slower to get round the moving parts when you start up.

The second number refers to the oils viscosity when the engine is at running temperatures. Now I know your thinking shouldn't it be a lower number than the first as oil gets thinner when hot? The answer is not so, as its measured on a differant scale to cold viscosity.

Now although you can pick an oil with a lower prefix value, the second value should always be what the manufacturer specifies as this is best for the engine.

Also you may find that using car oil and not bike specific oils means you'll be topping up more often as a bike engine in my expirience will burn car oil quicker.

If you want a good quality oil for a resonable price Halfords do a fully synthetic bike oil in 5l bottles for around 30quid, and for the record their oils are made by Duchams so it aint crap your paying for.

Hope this helps,

JIM.

I always thought that the W stands for "weight"

Well I guess differant manufacturers could have differant words for the 'w' , But the Mobil reps I used to deal with always refered to it as 'winter'.

sherlock wrote:Penrite HPR15

Guy's, trolling through the Penrite web site I note that the HPR15 is not recommended for motorcycle engines , specifically wet clutch models. I'm sure I read on the bottle it was OK but perhaps the composition has now changed ?

A phone call to the Australian sales desk in Melbourne recommends using the Penrite Gas10 (10W) or for older (higher mileage) engines using the HPR Gas (20W). He specifically knew the TRX, as he recommended the Gas 20 for it's oil consumption and due to it having dry sump. Also commented that it would help with "gudgeon knock" due to it's firing order........ He went on to mention that Suzuki bearings are especially prone to problems with the detergent used in the HPR oils . Time for a rethink.

http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.a ... &langid=16

http://www.penrite.com.au/html/s02_arti ... _top_id=55

Yamaha mnual specs an oil with a rating no higher than CD.....HPR15 is a CF and therefore contains additives you don't want.

The only info I can find on Gas10 says that is a CG-4 rated oil, so I wouldn't be putting that in my bike either.

As far as additives in oil go I'd air on the side of caution. Detergents, PTFE, Molly, all these can impregnate the clutch plates and cause clutch slip, 'solids' in the oil (PTFE) can also clog oil filters.
I've only found one that'll work with bikes, and its called 'ACTIV8'. I've been using it for a while now with great results

JIM.

Kevtrx849 wrote:I always thought that the W stands for "weight"

http://www.motul.fr/uk/conseils/index_moto.html

youngy wrote: Yamaha mnual specs an oil with a rating no higher than CD.....HPR15 is a CF and therefore contains additives you don't want.

The only info I can find on Gas10 says that is a CG-4 rated oil, so I wouldn't be putting that in my bike either.

So, wich oil is no higher than CD? Can´t any....

Killerwhale wrote:

youngy wrote: Yamaha mnual specs an oil with a rating no higher than CD.....HPR15 is a CF and therefore contains additives you don't want.

The only info I can find on Gas10 says that is a CG-4 rated oil, so I wouldn't be putting that in my bike either.

So, wich oil is no higher than CD? Can´t any....

Ahh, that´s why:

"CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only"



...and manual states API-Se or higher, why oh why didn´t i look there first....