The TRX Oil Change

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

No reason to remove oil pump cover purely for an oil change.
Just be mindful of the small brass bush that slips into the outer filter/engine case that the small o ring goes around. Some have not realised and it’s fallen into the oil when removing the case.
10Nm on the bolts too.

[wreckage]

Cheers, Brian.

I was wondering why it was included in the original parts list...

[HolerTogni]

From what I can see I would need only parts from the below list... Am I right?



Oil Filter : 4X7-13440-01 (1996 TRX) [4X7-13440-90 - #19 in above illustration]
...
Oil filter housing large O ring: 93210-64297 [#21 above]
...
Oil filter housing small O ring: 93210-12790 [#73 above]
...
Sump plug crush washer: 214-11198-01 [#48 above]
...

Hi wreckage!

As already said before, definitely no need to remove the oil pump cover when only changing the motor oil ...

But be sure two have both washers for the both oil drain plugs - in the list of the first post as well in your list only the sump plug washer is mentioned but not the washer for the oil tank drain plug (see first picture in first post here).

As far as I remember, there is no picture of the oil tank drain plug in the parts catalog, even the people in the dealer's workshop couldn't find it when I pointed them to it.

I'm not sure, whether it is a plug of 10 mm or 8 mm in diameter, but any average copper or aluminium washer for a 10 mm or 8 mm screw should do the job.

... maybe the first post should be corrected / complemented ...

Indicating greetings from Munich!

[wreckage]

Thanks, HolerTogni

Yes, I've made use of the oil tank drain plug and had a similar experience with dealer parts people claiming they had no part number for a washer/gasket for it.
Mine doesn't have a washer and it never leaks. I have spare crush washers for the sump plug.

... maybe the first post should be corrected / complemented ...

I'd love to see that... I'll give it a bash after I've done the filter/oil change if nobody beats me to it.

[Trx850dirk]

What are the moments for the 2 drainplugs and the 4 bolts of the cover?
Not shure what the service manual refers 2?

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

It has a dry sump so the drain plug next to the oil filter drains the top sump and the drain plug on the bottom engine pan drains (around 500mm ) that’s like the collection pan for the oil and it gets scavenge pumped from there to the top sump.
Be mindful only 10Nm on the bolts that retain the oil filter cover.
There is also a small brass sleeve and o ring too at the narrow end of the oil filter cover that can easily fall into your oil change collection bucket.

[HolerTogni]

Hi Trx850dirk!

The torque for the drain plug of the engine case (the one on the lh side) is 35 Nm.
The torque for the drain plug of the oil tank (the one on the rh side) is 30 Nm.

As cobba already wrote, the torque for the screws of the oil filter cover is (only!) 10 Nm.
But, as far as I remember, there are 5 screws.

Happy draining!

Manual reading greets from Munich!

[ekoja]

I never trusted torque wrenches on the sump bolts, they always felt like you were over tightening while waiting for the click or whatever noise your wrench has.
I used the screwdriver socket handle.
There was no way doing the bolts up with that that you could apply enough force to strip them.
Can't know what foot pds I got but they never stripped or leaked. The tip originally from Kev.

[HolerTogni]

Hi ekoja!

To be honest, I always tighten the oil filter cover screws only hand-tight. I never had any leak or damaged threads.

"As tight as necessary, as loose as possible!" is my motto with these screws.

Sensitive greets from Munich!

[JoeSlow]

When a TRX has a full oil and filter change, is it normal for the sight glass to go black rather than a nice fresh oil amber colour?

[HolerTogni]

Hi JoeSlow!

I'm afraid that is quite often the case after a few km's with fresh oil.

However, this is a sign of (too much) old dirty oil remaining in the engine.

Was the oil warm when you drained it?
Had the oil enough time to pour out completely?

Maybe a further oil change after only a short time or distance is a good idea - quasi use the oil to flush the engine.

Been there done that - greets from Munich!

PS:
Also helping this case is an oil change at the end of the season - then the dirt in the oil has not so much time to settle and, thus, cannot remain in the corners of the engine.

[dicky]

It's a common enough occurrence with dry sump engines. My Aprilia does the same thing.
Rather that warm the engine enough to get the oil moving before draining it, I ride the bike around and get it hot, then wait til its cooled down a bit and drain it and wait for ages in the hope that it all drains out. Maybe this makes no real difference as the new oil is still dirty almost immediately.
Call it character and live with it.

[JoeSlow]

Thank you both for your replies. Yes, I warmed the engine but the bike was static, on a paddock stand.
I can live with it. The bike is good as gold, very reliable and satisfying to ride. Should have said that when I got the bike, it was missing the small spacer insert,with the o-ring.
Perhaps I will use flushing oil next time, before I refill.

I have a set of TRX specific FCRs for it, but have not fitted these yet, as I believe a special throttle cable is required.

[HolerTogni]

Hi JoeSlow!

You should get you the collar and the O-Ring, both are still available and don't cost a fortune - I suppose you mean the ones in the oil filter housing.

Mine was similar when I got it twenty years ago:
The collar was missing but the little O-Ring was there.
As soon as I became aware that the collar (which supports the O-Ring and keeps it from being moved in the oil sump) was missing, I got me one and never regretted it! ;o)

Ah, by the way: You (of course) did also drain the oil tank when draining the sump?

Already heard some weird things regarding the oil change at a TRX - greets from Munich!