Track day on standard NX4

[dandywarhol]

would the YYS valves not be easier to install....no grinding to start with???

They are basically a copy of Race Tech and I've used them in a TDM900. No grinding required but drilling and brazing required with them both

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Emulators work really well especially when front end is sprung to your needs.
Plenty of feedback and I could push things a lot further especially under brakes and got to the stage where the next weak link was a fork brace to stop things twisting but that was under real heavy braking with the bike off centred a little.

[Racer-unk]

thanks Guys

I think i will try this route for now. cheap enough.'
all my spare cash going into kids for now....new Saxophone for one (delivered).....next, new decent DSLR camera for the other(next month)
Hence I did not jump at Coxylaad's FCR offering.....

[Racer-unk]

This Sat was raceday no2. Turns out I'd be paying school fees......and lots of it. Was supposed to be warm and very windy. Ended up cold with an icy wind. I was a bit wary during quality steadily building up to an fair laptime.

Race 1. Started well off the line passing a few guys down to first corner where one of the wild youngster cut me off and I lost a few places.......well after that, I kept a steady pace and kept everyone behind me, there for the remainder of the race. Good position for me with only the dude on the trick HP4 superbike lapping me.

Well that's where the good day ended. I looked at my tyres and i had destroyed right hand side of both front and rear. Tried race2, but it was so cold I could not get any heat into tyres during out and warmup laps...rear was sliding around too much and the bike developed a misfire. I think this is related to vacuum fuel pumps. why are there two of them anyway?.......(had this issue before and it just went away). Pulled off after warmup lap as trying to race would have ended in tears.......and more school fees.

Walked away with my pride .......and some respect from those pesky RVF400 riders...

Need them tyre warmers soon...........

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Buy a decent pair of warmers as there are plenty of cheap n nasties out there.
Mate went with a cheap pair, rear stopped working on the 2nd days use and replaced under warranty. Next time out, front one shorted and cooked his front Pirelli and scrutenerring made him replace it...

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

On the resistor plug question raised earlier , if you look inside the cap you can unscrew the brass insert and remove it. A 50mm long spring and 30mm long 10k resistor will then pop out.
Remove the resistor and replace it with a length of copper wire or brass welding rod the same length. Leave the spring in place as it's also used to factor in any thermal expansion and screw the brass insert back in place to house all components once again.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

So now I just need to find out the next equation and clarification of my assumptions are correct.
Less resistance means higher voltage to the plug gap and shorter brighter spark.

Now the resistor will give a spark that is not quite as bright but over a slightly longer duration????

My next question is does the duration of the spark impact on the next charge cycle on the coils???
Will no resistor allow the coils to charge up earlier???

Why do I ask this , well I'm wondering if Yamaha uses both resistor plugs and resistor caps for that reason for a longer duration so the coils don't saturate and create heat that will impact on reliability of the coils?

Or am I barking up the wrong tree here????

Are coils overheated when the gap at the plug is gets too large and takes longer for the required voltage for the spark to ark???

[dandywarhol]

Good question - I've never understood the double resistor scenario.
I've always believed either use resistor plugs and solid lead/non resistor caps or non resistor plugs and resistor leads/plugcaps but not both. I'd be interested in your findings

[Mincehead]

I`m not sure there is a known spark duration, the spark / current jumps to earth at the plug. It takes as long as any discharge of energy will take, it may take longer if a coil releases it`s current a different way but the nature of how it works is that the trigger simply allows a flow of current that will search for earth down the shortest route.
I found this, interesting read:

http://www.auroraelectronics.com/igniti ... rmance.htm

[dandywarhol]

I`m not sure there is a known spark duration, the spark / current jumps to earth at the plug. It takes as long as any discharge of energy will take, it may take longer if a coil releases it`s current a different way but the nature of how it works is that the trigger simply allows a flow of current that will search for earth down the shortest route.
I found this, interesting read:

http://www.auroraelectronics.com/igniti ... rmance.htm

Why, oh why do people design websites with white text on black background?? I just can't read that, I've got Scotopic Sensitivity which makes reading difficult with high contrast - even worse with white on black.

[dicky]

Click and drag the mouse down the screen to highlight the entire page.
This will give dark text on a white background.
Still looks shitty but might help you out a bit.

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Searching around, I found plenty of conflicting views on forums but some of the manufacturers of plugs, coils and leads where just as conflicting.
One company, Tempest Aviation gave an excellent explaination to the reason why resistors are placed in spark plugs.
The biggest job is to provide a flatter clean spark with no spikes through the spark duration.
That's the trade off with resistance, a little less voltage and slightly longer consistant spark burn duration.
A bit like squeezing the end of a hose and having 1 litre of water flowing through it... It will be a little more consistant squirt but over a longer period than just a 1 litre dump through an open hose that will trickle , dump and trickle a lot faster with a predominant spike in the middle.

A spark that ramps up in intensity at the start may cause an incomplete ignition of fuel plus a ramp down of intensity at the end can cause damage to the electrode.
They gave boundaries too on the resistors ohms that allow this between 600 ohm and up to 5k to also deal with unwanted RF and compression of band width.
Obviously why different plug manufacturers have their own ideas of resistors fitted in their plugs.
Some are specific just to smooth out the spike with lower values and some are hi value ohm ,multi functional to deal with suppression of RF and or fuel burn issues like combustion chamber shape...

But as Rod has made me aware, AVIATION FUEL is governed by strict guidelines so you get the same grade of aviation fuel where ever you go in the world.

So that statement in itself clarified what I had learnt from other material read in papers and thesis's by professional engineers that answered my question.
Thanks Rod...

Why Yamaha run resistor caps on top of their resistor plugs.
FUEL...!!!!

Every day fuel sold at the Servo has different guidelines all around the world so the nice clean hi octane fuel you buy locally here in Australia will differ from fuel purchased in the centre of some obscure or 3 rd world country.
Most late model motorcycles that run resistor plugs and caps are sold all around the world so they need to accomidate for this.
So the resistor in the plug cap adds further to the spark burn duration of the plug at the expense of not being quite as high voltage and intensity to allow for irregularities in fuel from country to country to initiate a complete burn...

Do I need that resistor in my bike????
I know I only run fresh 98 Ron BP in my bike so I have no fear in removing the resistor from the plug cap.
The resistor in the spark plugs I use are a 5k resistor and I believe this is ample to stop unwanted RF corrupting the ignition .
The 5 k resistor in most of your every day spark plugs serves this duel purpose of a constant clean spark plus compress any unwanted RF within a tolerable band width so should not impede the electronics on my TRX.

Thanks again Rod for just fine tuning my learnings on this subject ...
What triggered this search for answers...
I remember IGNITECH made me aware you need to run either resistor plugs OR. Resistor caps to suppress unwanted RF...
Early model ignitechs where a common mod on Ducati's years ago and they encountered this problem of corrupting the IGNITECH . The problem was sorted by fitting either option, resistor caps or resistor plugs...
Noticed a lot more posts of late with people having running issues but have sorted the usual carby / intake issues.
Everything has a use by date and I think the resistors inside the caps may become more of an issue as our TRX's age...
2 choices, replace the resistor or remove it and put a solid core Inplace if your confident about the quality of fuel...

[cobbadiggabuddyblooo]

Added info...
The optimum spark burn time can vary from 0.8Ms to 2.2Ms on your average motor vehicle dependent on the resistance.
Get outside these boundaries and it's time to start looking at where you have a resistance issue at the detriment of performance or misfire...
This info was sourced from another paper written on the subject..

Extra extra info....

Why didn't I find this link earlier....

Here is the simplest explanation in a link, again from an aviation stand point but relevant...

http://www.ultralightnews.ca/articles/r ... dplugs.htm

Now the IGNITECH when set on AUTO for the dwell and why... Here is your answer...
It also answers the question indirectly on why it is advantageous to run the coils via a relay...

http://dtec.net.au/Ignition%20Coil%20Dw ... ration.htm

http://www.springer.com/cda/content/doc ... p180213825

Or read the inductive ignition section in here as it explains how how the voltage / coil / load is dealt with via the ECU to deal with dwell...
Heat should not be an issue with my coil set up and the relay with provide a more consistant spark intensity.

[Racer-unk]

Sat 26th, I was back on a wet track for the first time ever....yes we live in a drought stricken district and I have never ridden a wet track before.
Cautious at first then upped the pace as a dry line started to appear. My mate with a slipper clutch had a bit of an advantage going into the slower corners but i kept him in site. Some really slow guys on the track made things tricky as you don't really know what to expect from them. It was fun riding away from much faster and modern bikes anyway.

My second outing was at about 90% pace, seeing there were still odd damp patches around and I was still not 100% mentally recovered from my spill in November.

My new emulator and other front-end changes definitely improved the slow corner stability although it helped zero with the bike dancing around a bit under heavy braking at the end of the straight. Not complaining seeing most bikes do anyway. Just seems the R6 and S1000RRRR bikes are a lot more stable into the corner than what I experience. Anyway, what does not kill you makes you stronger. SHALL I TENSION THE EMULATOR SPRING A BIT????

My new footpeg position +/- 20mm up by 20mm back feels good compared to standard, but I want to go a bit more back and another 10mm up.

9 weeks off the bike, I feel a little stiff having only done two sprint race distances.
Track closed for February, so I hope they resurface the track as promised. Till to colour tail-end and patched fairing. Maybe frame as well....

[coxylaad]

Maybe that's the mass centralization of the more modern bikes helping out in the braking areas.

I am not actually sure what the official figures are for the stock trx? I would be interested to know as I will be testing mine. I would have presumed the trx has a front end bias. I like bikes with a front end feel, its why I have stuck with the trx formula as opposed to just buying another bike.